Foodie Fridays

Moroccan lamb kebabs with flatbread

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For us, Sundays are typically lazy days – having a little lie-in, then getting up and enjoying a cup of coffee on the patio and finally contemplating what we would like to do for the day.

In the summer that mostly involves pottering around the garden, taking a dip and in the pool and then going out for a lunch at one of the many beautiful wine farms that surround Somerset West and Stellenbosch – so lucky to live here in the Cape Winelands!

However, in the winter it is a different story (apart from the lie-in, of course).  Winter times we have coffee in bed (or otherwise dressed like an Eskimo on the couch, under a blanket) and it inevitably involves some type of comfort food for lunch!  But, when the sun is out – like today – our lunchtime plans turns into a hunt for how we can maximize the sun spots around the garden.

So instead of being indoors today, you will find us sitting on the patio, in the sun, having a little grill while watching Formula 1!  (Yip, I’m a huge fan.  Funny story – in high school I really liked a boy who really liked Formula 1.  So, in order to make the requisite impression I immediately started watching the races… And while the crush didn’t last, my love for Formula 1 never went away!)

On the menu today is a firm favourite of hubby and mine – Moroccan lamb kebabs with flatbreads.  What I really like about this dish (apart from its wonderfully aromatic Moroccan flavours) is that is really great to serve if you have a few friends over.  You can prepare everything beforehand and then just sit and enjoy your time with them around the grill.  I also like that we keep the dishing up interactive – we lay all the components of the dish out on the table – and then everyone can help themselves and put their flatbreads together with the combinations that they prefer.  Some want a bit more chili, others a bit more yogurt… Really sociable!

Lastly, I have to confess – depending on how the mood takes me, I might take the time to make my own flatbreads and on other days (like today!) I will just buy them.  I could not be bothered to spend any more time indoors than what I absolutely need to today!  However, if you are feeling up to it, I’ve included my very easy flatbread recipe below.

Moroccan lamb kebabs with flatbread

(serves  2)

Ingredients:

For the lamb kebabs:

400g lamb, cut in cubes

1 red onion, cut in pieces

 

For the marinade:

Juice of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 cm ginger, freshly grated

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 pinch cumin

2 pinches dried chili flakes

For the yogurt sauce:

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 bunch coriander, roughly chopped

250g plain, natural yogurt

1 tablespoon lemon zest

Salt & white pepper to taste

To serve:

2 tomatoes, chopped

1 lemon, cut into quarters

Handful of coriander

4 flatbreads

(Tip:  If using wooden skewers to make your kebabs, soak them in water for 10 minutes to prevent them from burning.)

Method:

  1. Mix all the marinade ingredients in a bowl.
  2. Add the lamb cubes to the marinade and mix well, ensuring the meat is nicely coated.
  3. Next, thread the meat on to the wooden skewers – alternating a cube of lamb and a slice of red onion.
  4. For the yogurt sauce, mix all ingredients in a bowl and place in the fridge.
  5. Heat the grill until it is nice and hot.  Grill the skewers on all sides for about 7 minutes (depending on the size of your lamb cubes).
  6. Heat your flatbreads in a pan.
  7. To serve, take the meat off the skewers and place in a large serving dish.
  8. Add your lemon and the flatbreads
  9. Serve with the chopped tomato, coriander and yogurt sauce
  10. Fill your own flatbread and enjoy!

Easy flatbread

Ingredients:

115g white flour

25g wholemeal flour

pinch of salt

Method:

  1. Sift the flour and salt into a bowl.
  2. Make a well in the middle of the flour and gradually add 100 ml of lukewarm water to the middle, adding flour in from the sides.
  3. Knead the dough until it is firm and springy – add a bit more water/flour if needed to get the right consistency.
  4. Divide your dough into small round balls (you should get about 10/12 out).
  5. Place on a floured tray and cover with a damp cloth.  Leave for 45 minutes.
  6. Once ready to cook, roll each ball of dough into a thin, wide circle.
  7. Dust them with flour and keep them covered with a damp cloth to prevent them from drying out.
  8. Heat up a flat pan and place your flatbread in the dry pan.  Turn them over to the other side when they begin to go brown and bubble.
  9. Once done, I keep them in a plate with a damp cloth to prevent them from going too crispy.

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PS:  So at the time of writing this on Sunday morning, we were filled with joy at the prospect of a beautiful sunny day.  Mother Nature had other plans – the sun never made an appearance!  So this dish was prepared on a griddle pan on the stove, and enjoyed in front of the fireplace!

Steak tartare with pommes frites

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Beautiful Narbonne, where I had my first ever steak tartare

I was still small when I discovered that I did not mind rare (raw!) meat.  I remember when my mom used to buy our meat from the butcher at month-end… A Friday afternoon would be spent packing the meat, sausages and ground beef into portions and packing it into the freezer.  I always tried to sneak a pinch of the ground beef.  I loved the taste of it, but always felt very naughty doing so.  My folks would not ever consider having a steak that was not super well done, so what demented child was I, eating raw meat like that?!  As I got older, much to my relief I came to realise that some people did actually prefer their steaks cooked medium or even medium rare and when I saw beef carpaccio on a menu for the first time I knew that I was fine!

The first time I heard of steak tartare was on my favourite cooking/travel show of all time – Rick Stein’s French Odyssey.  According to him it was a very fashionable dish in France in the sixties and it seemed to have made a comeback in recent years.  In the program he told a story of how, when he’d order it, French waiters would always pull up their noses at him and say indignantly “You know that it is raw, sir!”.  He was delighted by the fact that an Englishman could prove them wrong and eat it without even batting an eyelid.  On the show, when he made it, I was sure that I would love it and therefore when we visited France last year I made sure that I searched it out on the menus!  We found it in a little brasserie in the south west of France in a small city by the name of Narbonne and it was everything I hoped it would be – the meat full of flavour, blended beautifully with the addition of the tangy capers and gherkins, and the egg yolk giving a velvety feel to it all.

So when Frexit hit me last week, I thought back to this must-have dish and hubby and I decided to give it a try and make it ourselves, using Rick Stein’s recipe.  I was so chuffed!  It turned out beautifully and tasted exactly like the dish we had.  (What was different though, is that the restaurant where I had it, served the rest of the ingredients separately from the meat – so that you could add your own quantity of ‘toppings’ to each little bite of beautiful beef.  I must be honest, I actually prefer the way we made it in the recipe below – all mixed together.)

If you are not an adventurous eater this will not be a dish that appeals to you.  But if you wonder about it – try it!  You will not be disappointed!  (You can also start slowly – take that pinch of ground beef sometime!)

Steak tartare with pommes frites

(serves 2)

Ingredients:

300g tail end of beef fillet, straight from the fridge

1 tablespoon capers, finely chopped

2 shallots, fine chopped

2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 gherkin, finely chopped

½ teaspoon sea salt flakes

10 grinds of black pepper

2 medium egg yolks

(Rick Stein added 3 dashes of tabasco sauce to his dish, be we did not.  We served it with tabasco on the side.)

Method:

  1. Trim the meat of all fat and sinew and chop finely by hand.
  2. Put the meat into a bowl with the capers, shallots, parsley, oil, gherkin, salt and pepper.
  3. Mix together lightly two forks and then spoon into the centre of two plates and shape into a neatish round. (We used little round metal moulds to get a nice shape to ours.)
  4. Make a small indent in the top and then gently add an egg yolk to each.
  5. Serve with some pommes frites (good old French fries, if you are not trying to sound fancy!)

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Homemade pappardelle with pulled pork

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Homemade pasta – a labour of love!

Sundays have never been a particular favourite day of mine.  I think it stems from when I was small.  After Sunday lunch my thoughts always turn to the inevitability of Monday morning and back to school; and when at seven pm the theme song to my parents’ favourite wildlife program would ring out on the telly, I knew with certainty – the weekend was over.

I’ve carried a bit of that into my adult life and I will lie if I say that the same case of Sunday blues don’t still affect me some days.  However, being grown-up has other perks (apart from no homework!) which makes Sundays a whole lot more bearable.  There’s the Sunday morning lie in, coffee in bed, sometimes a late brunch (with some bubbles of course!)… or like today, the anticipation of a wonderfully lazy lunch at home, trying out a new recipe I found in a magazine.

There is something about making slow food, without a rush, that is good for the soul.  I think it might be because it helps you to focus in the present; be it getting your hands a bit dirty, the aromatic smells, practicing your chopping skills or sipping a glass of your favourite wine – there is no worries beyond creating a wonderful meal and definitely no thoughts of Monday looming!

So today this lunch of homemade pappardelle pasta and pulled pork is just the thing to make the weekend last that little bit longer.  And if I am lucky there might be some leftovers for … let’s rather not say it!

Homemade pappardelle with pulled pork

(serves 4)

Ingredients:

For the pork:

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 garlic clove, chopped finely

2 tablespoons of apricot jam

1 kilogram pork shoulder

1 onion, finely chopped

3 apples, peeled, cored and cut in quarters

2 pears, peeled, cored and cut in quarters

250ml vegetable stock

250ml cider

For the pasta:

400g flour

Salt

4 eggs

2 tablespoons of butter, melted

Handful of chopped flat leaf parsley, chopped

Method:

Pork:

  1. Preheat your oven to 180 degrees Celsius
  2. Rub the pork with the apricot jam and garlic.
  3. Heat the olive oil in a large pan and brown pork on all sides.  Remove the pork from the pan, place in an ovenproof dish and set aside.
  4. Add the chopped onions, apples and pears to the pan and fry until caramelized.
  5. Place the onions, apples and pears with the pork in the ovenproof dish and add the stock and the cider.
  6. Cover with a lid (or foil) and roast in the oven for 1.5 hours or until the meat can be pulled apart easily.
  7. Shred the meat in the dish.
Brown pork on both sides
Fry apples, pears and onions until caramalized
Add the apples, pears and onions to the pork shoulder and pour over the cider and vegetable stock

Pasta:

  1. Place the flour into a large mixing bowl.
  2. Add a pinch of salt and make a well in the centre of the flour.
  3. Add the eggs to the centre of the well and mix until a dough forms.
  4. Turn the dough out on a lightly floured surface and knead it until elastic.  Cover in clingfilm and lest it rest for 30 minutes.
  5. Flatten the pasta dough out with your rolling pin and then roll it out to about 3mm thick.  (You can use a pasta machine if you don’t have the arms for it!)
  6. Cut it into about 5cm wide strips and cook in boiling salted water until al dente.  Drain off the water.
Make a well in the middle of the flour and add the eggs
After resting the dough, roll out in 3mm strips
Cut the pasta to pappardelle
Cut the pasta to pappardelle

To serve, toss the hot pappardelle with the melted butter.  Add the pulled pork and gently mix through.  Top off with the chopped parsley.

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Homemade pappardelle pasta with pulled pork

Autumn days… with a seared steak salad

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The beautiful colours of autumn in Franschhoek, close to Cape Town

Autumn is my favourite season.  Ok, so getting up in the mornings for work while it is dark is not the greatest – nor is getting home and it being dark again – but it still does not take away from the things I love about this time of the year:

  • The sun rising over the mountains while I travel to work (no matter how bad the traffic, it brings a smile to my face)
  • The beautiful orange, yellow, red and brown leaves on the trees
  • Lighting the fireplace for the first time since the previous winter
  • Snuggling under a blanket on the couch watching my favourite sports (rugby, the Tour de France and F1)
  • But the best of all… gorgeous blue sky days that are not too hot or too cold so that a person can just laze about outside while soaking up a bit of sun and breathing in the crisp autumn air

And even better, we are always lucky that the best of those days are seemingly reserved for a Saturday or Sunday, which means that I have the pleasure of enjoying it for myself, instead of just staring at it longingly through the window by my desk!

Days like this won’t be complete without a perfect little lunch to go with it (and some bubbly of course!)  And is there a better way to celebrate the outdoors than by having a braai (or a barbeque for those not from SA)?!  So looking at the weather for the weekend it seems like we are in for another stunner of a day on Sunday.  And while I don’t know what will find its way on to the lunch table this time, I still have fond memories of what hubby made last Sunday – inspired by a South African chef, Ruben Riffel.  Let’s just say a fire was lit, a braai was made and a good time was had by all!  Yum!

So if you are looking for something light and delicious to enjoy this weekend, how about giving this salad a try?  Whether you make it on a braai, use your barbeque or  a grill, get out there and enjoy!

Seared steak with horseradish, fig and rocket salad

(serves 2)

For the meat:

300g sirloin steak

Freshly ground salt and black pepper to taste

For the salad and vinaigrette:

Big handful of rocket leaves

4 ripe figs

12 caper berries

½ cup parmesan cheese shavings

2 tablespoons of olive oil

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 lemon

For the horseradish cream:

2 tablespoons creamed horseradish

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

1/2 teaspoon of sugar

Method:

  1. To make the horseradish cream, mix all the ingredients well and set to the side.
  2. Remove the meat from the fridge at least 20 minutes before putting in on the braai/barbeque. Season with freshly ground salt and black pepper.
  3. Place the meat on the braai/barbeque and cook over a high heat on both sides until seared on the outside.  Best served medium, which should take about 8 minutes on each side. Remove from the heat, wrap in foil and rest for 5 minutes.
  4. Mix the olive oil, balsamic vinegar and garlic together
  5. Slice the figs and capers
  6. Place the rocket at the bottom of your serving dish.
  7. Slice the meat in thin slices and arrange on top of the rocket.
  8. Scatter the figs, capers and parmesan shavings over the top.
  9. Drizzle with the vinaigrette.
  10. Squeeze over some lemon juice and serve with dollops of the horseradish.

If you have any recipe ideas that I could try on these beautiful autumn days, feel free to comment and let me know!

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The Restaurant at Waterkloof

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The Restaurant at Waterkloof – picture taken from the Waterkloof Wines website

It was hubby and my 14th wedding anniversary this week.  We don’t often go out, but on special occasions like birthdays or anniversaries, we really make an effort and go to a really special place.  Living in the Cape Town surrounds we are really spoilt for choice as 8 of the top 10 restaurants featured in the yearly EatOut Mercedes Benz awards in South Africa are actually located here!

So for this years’ anniversary celebration, we decided that The Restaurant at Waterkloof would be our pick of the crop.  The Waterkloof wine estate is located close to Somerset-West, on the south-facing slopes of the Schapenberg, and it offers beautiful vistas over False Bay.  The views over Somerset West, towards Gordons Bay and out to sea are breath-taking and the contemporary architecture of the cellar and restaurant makes this the perfect setting to celebrate such a special occasion.  Part of the restaurant’s seating area is housed in a ‘glass box’ that juts out from the concrete building and it offers uninterrupted mountain, vineyard and ocean views.  We were there in the evening and the way that the twinkling lights below line the bay is truly spectacular.

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So, with me being such a foodie (and a foodie in the sense of me loving to eat food!), combined with sitting down in one of South Africa’s top 10 restaurants gave me the idea to try my hand at writing a food review.  The idea is not critiquing, but rather trying to convey all the flavours in a written form… so how hard can it be?

I can tell you now… it is very difficult!  Naturally not all the ingredients of each dish is divulged on the menu, which means that it is up to the fantastic waiters to convey what each wonderful, delicious mouthful consists of.  Once you try to commit to memory what every smear, drop and crumb contains, you end up realising that you have to place your hope on your palate as it would be impossible to recall what the waiter so effortlessly told you while you are tasting all the gorgeousness on the plate and savouring each bite!

Hubby and I opted for the three course menu and this is what went down!

Complementary amuse-bouche from the kitchen:image1 (1)

 

This lovely little appetizer consisted out of a rooibos jelly, dotted with pumpkin cream and an almond sprinkle.  Blackened leek shavings completed this perfect little mouthful.  The pumpkin cream was surprisingly savoury and the jelly so light.  The leeks being blackened slightly really intensified the onion flavour and added a lovely smokiness to this bite sized delight!

 

 

Saute snails with fleur de sel sable, spinach and blue cheese:

image2 (2)I opted for the snails as a starter.  I always like to try new things that I can’t make at home myself and this was surely one to try.  I’ve only ever known the snails in the local steakhouse, smothered in garlic and mozzarella!  Boy, is there so much more to snails!  The beautiful green ‘wings’ is actually parsley chips and it tasted amazing… like a paper thin crispy potato chip.  The snails were served with a spinach puree, garlic cream sauce on the plate but what really made it for me was the blue cheese sauce served on the side.  The garlic and blue cheese combined beautifully with the soft snails, while the spinach puree had some freshness to it.  The salted crumb added a wonderful texture to the dish.

Sea Bass Ceviche and Celeriac with snoek, seaweed and bottarga:image1

Hubby opted for the fresh seafood and of course I sneaked a little taste!  The celeriac discs were folded beautifully and in my mind looked like a little sea creature in itself under which all the wonderful seafood was hiding.  The flavours of the sea bass ceviche was clean, while the snoek and bottarga provided a bit of saltiness.  In hubby’s words: “Not over complicated, and perfectly balanced”

Karoo braised lamb shoulder with courgette, granola and cashews:

image3 (1)Karoo lamb.  The best lamb in the world, in my opinion.  This was hubby’s choice and it is right up his ally.  The lamb shoulder was so tender and sticky and had great flavour.  Although I can’t recall the waiter saying so, I could definitely taste the smallest hint of curry – maybe a masala spice? The granola and cashews added a different spin on the normal meat and two veg!

 

Seared Mauritius Sea Bass with caramelized fennel, grapefruit beurre blanc:image2 (1)

I opted for a fishy main.  Quite unusual for me, because, although I love seafood, I am typically sucked in by meats!  However, I love fennel, so that was the first thing that caught my eye and when I saw grapefruit, my mind was made up.  I just had to taste this combination!  The fish was perfectly prepared with a great crisp on the skin.  The grilled fennel was served with grapefruit and orange segments.  I’ve had fennel and orange before in a salad, but adding the grapefruit just added a touch of bitterness which I really enjoyed.  Additionally, and orange and grapefruit poached endive was served with the fennel and I could not believe how the endive actually absorbed the taste of citrus fruits.  However, the star of the dish for me was the grapefruit beurre blanc.  It really tied the dish together and with each bit I would lather up the sauce.  Delicious!

Complementary pre-dessert from the kitchen:

image1 (2)We were served a little vanilla crema with a cinnamon tuile and cinnamon gel, topped with coconut crumbs.  Definitely a combination made in heaven!  I loved the intense taste of the cinnamon tuile!

 

 

 

Belnori Forest Phantom with pistachio brittle and truffled pear:

image3 (3)So for dessert, I decided to try something different.  I was served a beautiful goats’ cheese, with a pistachio brittle and sweet slices of pear.  This is an amazing alternative to a cheese course.  I do love goats cheese so this was the perfect dessert for me; the sourness of the cheese with the addition of the sweet pear was a match made in heaven.  The pistachio brittle was also just the right amount of sweet and savoury!  I must admit, when I ordered this dessert and the waiter told me what it was just to make sure that I am comfortable with it, I did think twice.  However, my gut was right – I highly recommend it.

Dulcey Cremeux with pistachio, orange, rice pudding ice cream:image2 (3)

For me it was between the Belnori Forest Phantom above or this Dulcey Cremeux for dessert.  Well, thank goodness for hubby and that we could share!  This dessert was as amazing!  (Come to think of it, do it like we did – share!)  It consists out of a beautiful green pistachio sponge, rice pudding ice cream, a hazelnut tuile on a base of cocoa crumbs.  There was a wonderful pop of orange flavour – dare I say an orange curd?  Oh, it was delicious – gooey chocolate, with the gently flavoured ice-cream.  The cocoa crumbs adding a bit of bitterness and the orange curd some acidity.  Out of this world!

image1 (3)And just to push you over the edge, when you receive your bill, they bring out the best ‘after dinner mints’ ever – a feather light choux pastry filled with a blueberry cream, a tangy tangerine jelly and finally a deliciously decadent bitter sweet truffle!

Chef Gregory Czarnecki is a master at work and he has a great team supporting him.  The service is warm and friendly and you feel appreciated and taken care of.  Great food, great wine and great service in a stunning location.

Do yourself – and your tastebuds – a favour, and when you are next in the vicinity, make a reservation!  (Else you can try and use this as inspiration for a home cooked feast… let me see if I can go find some garden snails… NOT!)

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La dolce vita

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Rome was an amazing city to explore; the only thing was that a map of the city was just about useless for me.  I remember standing at the corner of a street, turning the map in any which way you can think of, but I just could not make sense of it!  It seemed as if every single street led to yet another piazza and I could never figure out which was the right street to take once we walked out the other side!  But this was actually the best part – just walking about and ending up seeing much more than what we would have if we just went straight to the next destination.  Even to this day we don’t use online ‘street view maps’ when we arrive in a new city.  I see too many tourists walking with their noses pressed up against the screen of their phones, never stopping to look up and around at all they are missing out on.

It’s hard to pick a favourite from all there is to see and do; but I will start with people watching. I loved the people watching.  Be it sitting on the Spanish Steps, watching locals and tourists, watching locals and tourists alike (!) or sitting in small, unknown piazzas we stumbled across, watching real Roman life go by.  In one particular little square we sat down on the steps, and a local mom and her daughter came to sit next to us.  The little girl had so much energy and you could tell all the mom really wanted to do was to sit and take a bit of a break.  Very excited the little girl talked and gestured to her mom and off she went – running around the square, and back to her mom.  Turns out mom was “timing” her little run around the piazza!  She kept going for at least half an hour – and remarkably her time “improved” each time she came back to check!  A very creative way to tire the little one out, if you ask me.

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Rome has an inordinate amount of things to see.  I can’t remember how many things we had on our “must-see” list, but what I do know is that we definitely did not make it to everything!

Down romantic cobbled streets and alleyways we walked into countless beautiful churches (and not even the famous ones!)

But St Peter’s Basilica, the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican museums were definitely a highlight.  However, we warned, the Vatican museums are packed in the morning.  We booked online tickets and got to skip the line (which was at least 1.5km long!) but still, once inside the entrance area, hubby had to hand in his back-pack and I had to pick up our actual tickets.  We split up to do this, almost to never find each other again amongst what seemed like 10 000 people mulling about!  (Top tip #1 – If you decide to split up in the entrance hall, agree on where to meet each other again.  I will never forget the feeling of dread when I turned around from the ticket counter and saw a sea of people, and no hubby in sight!  Top tip #2 – Visit the Vatican museums in the afternoon.  We left around lunch time and the entrance hall was like a graveyard!)  It was pure instinct that drew the two of us towards each other.  It was such a relief to see him again!  However, all the stress was worth the crowds and you’ve got to go see it for yourself.

No visit to Rome would be complete without visiting the spectacular Colosseum.  We booked a tour that included access to the passages underneath and that ends up with you walking out into the arena.  WOW!  It was really worth booking this.  I could not even begin to imagine how overwhelming it must have been walking out to a packed amphitheatre full of people screaming and shouting.  It’s hard to believe that this was constructed in AD 72 – 80.  The ingenuity of that time is something to behold.  (We went on to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill after visiting the Colosseum.  (Top tip #3 – bad idea!  We were exhausted afterwards… and the 37° heat didn’t help!)

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And as much as the piazzas stood in the way of my navigation skills, I loved all of them.  Sure, some are filled with touristy restaurants with waiters all but fetching you in the middle of the square to come and dine at their establishment, but the vibe is undeniable.  We stayed close to piazza Navona and had the privilege of walking through it a few times a day!  The Four Rivers fountain roars with water as street performers and artists rival for your attention.  My favourite night time spot was probably Campo de’ Fiori.  Musicians battle it out in the square for their turn to play, while people would buzz in and out of the restaurants and bars that line the piazza.  We sat down at a place with an odd name:  Sloppy Sam’s – and they tagline “sloppy in the back, classy in the front”!  Huh?  Who cares?!  I loved it!

From a food perspective, Rome was the last stop on our three week Italian holiday.  At this point there was not a parma ham, prosciutto or bruschetta that we didn’t know, a pasta or pizza we didn’t taste or a gelato flavour unbeknownst to us!  Being from the South African Karoo, growing up in region famed for flowers and lamb, I craved meat!  So for me, the best meal I had in Rome was at a little restaurant that had lamb chops on the menu!  Three beautifully prepared gorgeous lamb chops… but with the requisite paste course preceding it, of course!

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We saw so much, but left behind so much more to see.  So we did what needed to be done… Some say that if you throw a coin from your right hand over your left shoulder into the Trevi fountain, you will definitely return to Rome.  So to make sure, we duly did the coin toss! (An interesting fact about the coins from the Trevi fountain… on a daily basis the coins are collected and it is actually used to help subsidise a special supermarket that serves the poor in Rome, with help from the Italian Red Cross.)

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So now I know without a doubt that we will walk down the streets of the Eternal City again soon; it is a city that feels like and indoor and outdoor museum, it causes you to stop in awe around every other corner as it reveals a bit more of its history and it’s a city that completely dazzled us with its soul.

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Blue jewel… the Mediterranean

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The view over the Mediterranean from Praiano

I will never forget the first time I ever laid my eyes on the Mediterranean.  We arrived in Rome after a 21 hour flight from Cape Town.  Exhausted we had to rush to catch a train from Rome to Naples.  Two hours later (and no chance of sleep; I was petrified of missing our stop!) we arrived in Naples and had to rush to make the next train; a commuter train called Circumvesuviana that runs to Sorrento.  That was a horrid journey – “commuter train” translated means that there are no seats (well, at least not in the coaches we were in) and we had to stand the whole way to Sorrento.  I was so tired and exhausted that I could hardly stand on my feet and hubby had to give a lot of moral support to stop me from bursting into tears from sheer exhaustion.   Arriving in Sorrento, waiting at the station for the SETA bus that would finally take us to our destination, Praiano, I caught I small glimpse of some blue water between a row of houses.  So to be fair, that was probably the first glimpse of the Mediterranean.  But then, as we finally got on the bus and started the last leg of our journey, the blue jewel revealed herself to us and in that instant we fell under her spell.

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The first picture we took of the beautiful Mediterranean – from the SETA bus!

The famous Amalfi Coast drive was everything the books tell you it is – twisty, turny, breathtakingly beautiful and quite the adrenalin rush.  The speed with which the bus drivers navigate the narrow road is something to experience.  At first I did not understand why the driver was hooting randomly; was he just greeting people or were people upsetting him on the road?  After paying a bit of attention I figured it out; he hooted every time we approached a bend so that if there were cars approaching from the other side, they would hear the bus coming.  That way they would know to stop or get out of his way!  Ingenious!  And testament to the fact that they slow down for nothing!

Views of the Amalfi Coast drive from the bus!
Views of the Amalfi Coast drive from the bus!
Views of the Amalfi Coast drive from the bus!
Impossible to believe how the lemon groves cling to the side of the cliffs!
Views of the Amalfi Coast drive from the bus!

So just about 24 hours after we left Cape Town we finally arrived in Praiano.  Exhausted, but in love!  I have previously written about my love for Praiano and its little beach La Praia.  This is undoubtedly where our love for the Mediterranean comes from.   I know what made this extra special for hubby was a trip that we took from Praiano to Capri.  A local tour operator offered day trips to Capri and eagerly we signed up, wanting to see Capri but also the beautiful Amalfi Coast from the water.  The journey by speedboat was amazing.  Half way to Capri, in the middle of the ocean, our skipper stopped the boat.  In his best English and with some hand gestures he indicated: “Now you swimming!”  Hubby loved it!  They had snorkeling equipment on the boat and he said it was the experience of a lifetime.  The water was crystal clear; you could see down into the water for meters and meters and the fish….according to him it was like seeing a world that you never knew existed; swimming alongside fish that you have never seen before.  With the water being so salty you did not really have to do a lot of swimming and floating was easy.  To this day this is really one of his biggest highlights of any holiday.  Me, being a novice swimmer, I didn’t have the courage to jump into the ocean; if my toes can’t touch the ground I get panicky!

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View from the boat.
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Amalfi Coast from the water…
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The view from the top of Capri!
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Fraglioni rocks, off Capri

And maybe that is part of the allure of the Mediterranean for me.  The gentle waves.  And the swishing sound it makes.  The sea along our coast is much different, with waves thundering down.  I’ve never known what “gentle waves lapping the shore” meant until I experienced the Mediterranean.  And the best part of that is that it gives someone like me that is a bit scared of the big, rough seas the opportunity to swim in the ocean.  Oh, and how I love it.  The water is so quiet and clear that even I feel comfortable splashing about; even swimming a bit… provided that my toes can touch the bottom!  Some of the best times on our holidays have been when we were laying next to the sea, listening to the hypnotic sound of the waves.  Very few things come close.

Laia Praia harbour and beach
La Praia Beach

 

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Sunset on our last night in Praiano

But in talking about the first place where we’ve seen this beautiful blue ocean, my mind instinctively wanders to the place we last basked on her shores.

It was last year September (way too long ago, if you ask me!) and on the last day of our holiday on the Côte d’Azur we took the train to Menton.  What drew us there were all the good things we read about its stunning beaches and with Menton also being just about the last stop on the French Riviera before you head into Italy it made me think that I might be able to have a pretty decent pizza while we were there!  (It was uncanny to see road signs, showing Italy was just 10 miles away!)

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The beautiful Menton beach

When we arrived at the train station we immediately set off for the beach.  It was not hard to find; we just followed a group of locals who were carrying beach chairs and umbrellas!  And when we got there, we knew that we picked the perfect place to end off our holiday.  The water was warm, calm and clear; I could swim and for a moment I forgot that my toes needed to touch the bottom because for once there was a view that could compete with the beauty of the Mediterranean –  Menton’s old city cascading down the hill.

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The Mediterranean and the old town of Menton.  Bliss.

Laying on the beach was surreal.  Just closing my eyes, feeling the sun on my skin and listening to the ocean.  Staring out in front of me into the big blue and when I turned my head sideways, this stunning old city (and hubby) to my right.  It was a perfect day!  For lunch we didn’t have to go far; there was an amazing restaurant close to where we were.  Hubby had an amazing seafood platter; he says the best he has ever had and me?  Well, I had my pizza!

Hubby enjoying the water!
Perfection!
Me, doing some r&r!
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View from the restaurant in Menton.
According to Hubby: “The best seafood platter ever!”
I love pizza!

So if you crave a taste of the Mediterranean, I suggest you play this video on repeat, while preparing a bit of fish.

Cheers, until my feet touch your shores again!

Kingklip with sundried tomato marinade

(serves 4)

Ingredients:

4 kingklip fillets (or any firm fish that you can source locally)

 

Juice of half a lemon

60ml olive oil

3 tablespoons of sundried tomatoes, chopped

1 teaspoon of sugar

1 clove of garlic, crushed

4 sprigs of fresh thyme, chopped finely

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Method:

  1. Preheat your oven to 180 degrees
  2. Mix lemon juice, olive oil, sundried tomatoes, sugar, garlic, thyme, salt and pepper together
  3. Pour over fish and marinade for 30 minutes
  4. Transfer the fish to a baking tray and place in the oven for 15 minutes until the fish turns opaque and flakes easily when prodded with a fork
  5. Serve with a fresh salad

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Spanish flavour – Barcelona

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Gaudi’s famous lizard at Parc Guell

For me it is hard to say “Barcelona” and to not involuntarily think Freddie Mercury and Montserrat Caballe and the 1992 summer Olympics.  Barcelona is such an amazing city that its name genuinely deserves to reverberate when you say it!

We didn’t know what exactly to expect from the city, but all it took was the drive from the airport to our hotel to get us rearing to go!  It was a long flight from South Africa, but not even that could stop us.  An hour nap, a quick shower and we were out and about!  For the next couple of days we maintained this pace – it is such a bustling city, with so much to see and do and the people never seem to sleep!  Across from our hotel was a wonderful little restaurant which was constantly filled with locals and seemed to open just about all the time.  I remember one evening we went to watch a Spanish guitar duo in this old church just off Portal de L’Angel and we got back to our hotel at about 11:00.  Not feeling like going to bed yet, we decided to pop over to the restaurant for a drink, thinking that we’d probably have to be quick, before they closed.  No ways – they were packed and people were just starting to order food!  That’s definitely one of the reasons I enjoyed Barcelona so much – the people there eat so late!  (Hubby and I are famous for eating late; whenever our parents visit I always feel so bad, but despite our best efforts, it seems we never manage to get food on the table at a respectable time!)  That evening we drank sangrias and Spanish beer and had some fantastic tapas; white anchovies served in vinegar (I can’t find this anywhere in South Africa!), some fried calamari, gambas (prawns sauteed with some garlic), patatas bravas (diced potatoes with aioli and a spicy tomato sauce) and some toasted bread, rubbed with tomato (pan con tomate).  A feast!  Just the kind of snack food I love.

I found Barcelona to be a city of contrast.  In a way I expected to see the Gaudi influence everywhere, and I was really surprised when everything wasn’t all strange angles and mosaics!  However, when you do come across it, it is really mind-blowing.  What an imagination he must have had to envision the famous La Pedrera chimneys!  I loved it!  Not far from there we were lured into a little side street restaurant by a waiter professing that their restaurant made the best mojito’s in Barcelona.  We were not fooled but sat down in any case as site seeing is a tiring business and we could do with the rest!  While the mojito was definitely not the best I’ve ever had, the meal certainly made up for it.  We had a lovely starter with mussels and the main was simple, but so good – Spanish beef, cooked to perfection, served with chips.  The flavour in the meat was fantastic and very different in taste to South African beef.  Delicious.

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The famous chimneys of La Pedrera
The green ‘mosaics’ is actually broken champagne bottles!
A wide angle view of the roof at La Pedrera

And don’t forget the beautiful Parc Guell, where you can really see Gaudi’s style with different shapes and structures and building materials.  The mosaic work was spectacular.  I loved the morning we spent there.  Standing at the edge of the main terrace you have the most amazing view over the city, right to the blue Mediterranean.

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What a view from Parc Guell

But see, that’s the contrast – when you are in the city, you can’t think that there is a beach close by and when you lie on the beach, how can you imagine that there is this massive city behind you when all you hear is the sounds of the waves gently breaking on the shore?  It felt as if we were somehow cheating when we had a beach day; just lazing about in the sun.  With so much on offer you feel like you should be out there, rushing to see everything at once, but now and then you just have to put your feet up and do nothing; to build up some strength for the next round… or lunch at the very least!  And talking about lunch; what would a visit to Barcelona be without trying some of the world famous Spanish paella!  Starving, we staggered from the beach to go and find the perfect paella.  It was everything I imagined it would be… and more!  Wonderful fresh seafood, great flavour to the stock, and the rice… oh, the rice.  What a wonderful flavour and texture; a bit crusty at the bottom and served in a paella pan, just as it should be!

One of Barcelona’s stunning beaches
Time for some r&r

And as important it is to tick off the paella, you have to tick of Gaudi’s masterpiece, the Sagrada Familia.  We went very early one morning and sunlight was streaming through the windows.  It was quite surreal; it is something that I have seen on tv so many times before and to walk there with my own two feet was really special.  Because we were so early it was nice and quiet and the only noise you could hear was the sound of a chisel on stone.  I closed my eyes and imagined what it must have been like when the stone masons of old were chipping away at blocks, building the marvellous cathedrals of Europe.  We went to top of one of the spires (worth the 10 minute wait to go up with the lifts) and the vistas across the city was breath-taking.  Being so high up, seeing all the detail and the vision of all those who contributed to this magnificent structure up close was mind-blowing.  I felt very fortunate to be able to see this 8th wonder of the world in the making – it was started in 1926 and the estimated completion date is only 2026.  Wow.

Sagrada Familia
Sagrada Familia
The amazing roof
Capturing the morning light streaming in through the windows
Capturing the morning light streaming in through the windows
Capturing the morning light streaming in through the windows
Me, working hard capturing some amazing close-ups
Close-ups of the top of some of the shorter spires
Close-ups of the top of some of the shorter spires

After gawking at the incredible Sagrada Familia for a couple of hours, we worked up quite an appetite, but because there is so much to see and do, we decided to just grab a quick coffee and sandwich at a sidewalk café.  On the menu was a “Bikini”; a toasted ham-and-cheese sandwich!  No idea what inspired the name!  But with a cup of coffee and my bikini in hand, we were good to go and as usual, we scoured the fresh produce markets around the city.  However, this time it was the supermarket around the corner from where we stayed that impressed me most.  Upon entering, it did not look all that big – until I found the escalator to the lower level.  The downstairs area was entirely occupied with great fruit and veg and the most amazing array of seafood I have ever seen in any supermarket!  I could not believe it!  (And I’m sure the employees at the shop also thought it was unbelievable to see someone taking pictures inside a supermarket!)

Have you ever seen such a pretty egg stall!
Glorious Spanish meats!
Supermarket seafood!
Supermarket seafood!

Barcelona was an amazing place; both hubby and I commented about the feel of the city, the energy, the friendly people and the few things I’ve mentioned here are but a drop in the ocean of all it has on offer.  Definitely worth many more posts!

But for now, I will leave you with the words of Freddie and Montserrat – Viva Barcelona!

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Amazing Parc Guell

Incredible Narbonne… with sardines on the side

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Last year the holiday I have been dreaming about for so many years finally came to be.  We hired a boat and went cruising down the Canal du Midi in the south of France.  From there we went on to experience the picturesque Provence before finally ending our trip on the beautiful Côte d’Azur.  It took careful planning… how to make the most of our limited time and to stay within budget!

One place that I really wanted to include in our schedule was Narbonne.  Rick Stein briefly visited its fresh produce market (one of the largest in southern France), in Rick Stein’s French Odyssey (the tv show that was really the starting point of our aspirations to cruise the canals of southern France) and because it is not a big city it seemed like it would be a great stop to catch our breath before we embarked on our trip to Provence.

Apart from the market we didn’t know much about it, so I must be honest in saying that we had no real expectations; apart from buying some great produce at the market that we could make back in the self-catering apartment we rented!

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We arrived by train and because we only stayed two nights we set off to explore the medieval center of town straightaway.  I was immediately taken with how picturesque it was.  I loved the streetlights in the streets surrounding our apartment and the buildings were so beautiful.  The Canal de la Robine goes through the middle of town and each bridge that crosses the canal was covered in beautiful flower baskets.  I just loved the feel of the Narbonne.  It felt authentically French; it was without pretense, without masses of tourists and without trying to be anything that it was not.

We found our way to the tourist office, which was not far from the Pont des Marchands, or Merchant bridge, which basically is the foundation for a row of houses and shops.  (It actually reminded me of a miniature version of the Ponte Vecchio.)

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Armed with a map in hand, we were amazed at all that Narbonne had to offer.  It might be a small city but it had so many hidden treasures.  It is hard to pick just a few (and we definitely did not get to see all that we would have liked to) but here are our favourites:

Cathedrale de St-Just and St-Pasteur

Building on the cathedral started in 1272.  If you climb the adjacent Donjon Gilles Aycelin you can really marvel at the architectural beauty.

The Roman Horreum

This was a fantastic experience and a must do if you visit Narbonne.  It was a Roman underground warehouse and dates back to the end of the first century BC.  It has been set up with a wonderful display of light and sound… goosebump stuff!

Musee Lapidaire

This is another must do.  Inside the old church of Notre Dame de La Lamourguier about 1 300 blocks of stone from all kinds of Roman buildings are housed.  We paid for our entrance tickets and when the door opened I literally gasped for air – the setting is that beautiful.  (The lady selling the tickets was bursting with pride; the biggest smile on her face!)

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For the culinary part of our visit we spent quality time in Les Halles de Narbonne.  We arrived early morning and drank coffee with the locals at one of the coffee bars inside.  And then we went on the hunt for what we came for… sardines!  Rick Stein made sardines on the barbeque when he was there and although we would not have the luxury of that, we hoped to pick up a few that we could fry with some butter, garlic, lemon and parsley back in our little apartment.  Oh, and we were not disappointed.  Apart from all the wonderful seafood on offer, the market was brimming with everything your heart can desire.  One can easily stay in Narbonne a month and would still not be able to eat your way through the market!

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Our supper that night consisted out of a starter of fried sardines and a main of fresh pasta with clams, tomatoes and parsley, while we sipped wine from the region.

So Monday was a public holiday in South Africa and hubby and I had some gardening to do… more specifically, it was time to harvest our olives!  After such hard labour we sat back with a glass of chilled dry rosé and barbequed a few sardines.  Although this can hardly be called a recipe – because it really just relies on the wonderful flavour of the fish and the smokiness of the barbeque – here is our take on sardines on the barbeque.  We enjoyed it with our fond memories of Narbonne.

Sardines on the barbeque

(serves 2)

Ingredients:

6 sardines, gutted and cleaned

3 tablespoons of olive oil

Juice of half a lemon

Handful of roughly chopped parsley

Coarse sea salt flakes

Method:

  1. Light barbeque and wait for the coals to get hot
  2. Rub the fish with olive oil and sprinkle with lemon juice and salt
  3. Place the fish on the barbeque once the coals are really hot and grill for 6 minutes on each side
  4. Remove from heat, sprinkle with parsley and lemon juice
  5. Serve with lemon wedges and a side salad

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Venice; a feast for the senses

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The Grand Canal at sunset

Venice was nothing like I expected.  Sure, we’ve seen it on tv many times before and we knew it was going to be absolutely stunning, but arriving at Santa Lucia station and walking out onto the Grand Canal rendered me completely immovable, with the exception of my jaw dropping to the floor and my eyes popping out my head.  I was spellbound.  And no matter how hard I try, my words will never be able to do justice to just how beautiful and mesmerizing Venice is.

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Our first look down the Grand Canal

When I eventually came out of my daze, hubby and I went off to find the vaporetto (water bus) stop.  It was a bit of a mission to find out which one to take and when it arrived it was packed.  Hubby and I managed to squeeze in quite near to the front but we did not mind one bit as it gave us fantastic photographic opportunities.  Off we went down the Grand Canal, gaping at the splendour of it all.  We became aware of some commotion behind us at some stage; someone shouting really loudly, but nothing could take our attention away from the spectacle that is Venice.  I felt like Angelina Jolie in the The Tourist (albeit a tired, hot and sweaty version… with a heavy suitcase…) but I could imagine myself getting…

Vaporetto’s are really packed
Getting shouted at is worth it!

 

My daydream was rudely interrupted by a tap on the shoulder; rather an elbow in the ribs to be more exact.  The elbow belonged to an elderly lady, red in the face, shouting in my face “Attenzione! Attenzione! Attenzione!” She was clearly the source of the commotion that we’ve been ignoring, and we were actually the cause of it!  She, being a local resident, was not at all impressed by two silly tourists blocking her exit from the water bus!  She was shouting all kinds of, what I decided to take for Italian pleasantries (!) at us, while wiping the sweat of her brow.  We tried to apologize in our best Italian and with one last infuriated look our way she took her leave!  But we were not in the least bit offended.  We were in Venice.

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View down the Grand Canal from our vantage point on the vaporetto!
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More views from the vaporetto

We went to Venice because it is one of those bucket-list places.  There is something about this city built on top of the water that is just magical.  Its got a charm that is indescribable.  And the feeling that you get from it will never escape you.  Whenever anyone would ever utter the word “Venice” again, you will always yearn to go back to it.

An added bonus was the food we tasted there.  The shops have the most beautiful way of displaying even the simplest things.  We walked past a shop that sold dried pasta; complete with farfalle inspired by the Italian flag!  And restaurants would advertise their seafood in a dazzling display (especially the touristy ones!).  We were lucky to have found some really great little restaurants tucked away in small side streets as we did not stay so close to the tourist centre.  On our first evening we had amazing seafood with pasta.  What still amazes me about pasta in Italy is how simple they make it.  Not smothered in all kinds of thick and creamy sauces like we are typically used to, but rather letting the ingredients shine and the pasta really just becomes a vehicle so mop up all the natural goodness and flavours of the star ingredients.

Look! Italian flag pasta!
Restaurants showing off
Fantastic first night supper

The next day, we decided to just walk the streets without a map.  What an adventure.  It was amazing and we came across little squares and cafés we would have otherwise probably missed.  (We also discovered one or two dead ends!)  Lunch was in some neighbourhood restaurant where no one spoke a word of English and menus were only available in Italian.  It was filled with locals and I would have rather died than to take out my camera and take a photo!  We managed to order fegato alla veneziana (calf’s liver and onions) for hubby and pizza for me.  (Yes, not the quintessential Venetian dish, but I am a bit of a pizza addict and any pizza in Italy must be the real deal, right!)  It was simply delicious.  And we had to finish it off with tiramisu, of course!  There is no photos to show for it, which probably will necessitate that we go back there again one day!

Not that you need any excuse to go back to Venice.  I find it hard to describe the feeling I had when we were there.  I have tried to give a little glimpse of it above and when I read it back it seems so inadequate.  Maybe music can do it justice.

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The Rialto bridge at night

This is part of the soundtrack from the movie, The Tourist.  I think they have the music just spot on – every time I listen to it, it takes me back to that magical moment I first laid my eyes on the Grand Canal.  Click here and listen to at least about 45 seconds in… To me that is the music my soul makes when I think of Venice.  It is an incredibly special place and I am so grateful that I’ve had the opportunity to see it.  I truly hope I can go back one day.

PS:  And picking photos for this piece was agony!  I wish I could post all 1 032 we took!

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Piazza San Marco viewed from the sea