Food

Incredible Narbonne… with sardines on the side

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Last year the holiday I have been dreaming about for so many years finally came to be.  We hired a boat and went cruising down the Canal du Midi in the south of France.  From there we went on to experience the picturesque Provence before finally ending our trip on the beautiful Côte d’Azur.  It took careful planning… how to make the most of our limited time and to stay within budget!

One place that I really wanted to include in our schedule was Narbonne.  Rick Stein briefly visited its fresh produce market (one of the largest in southern France), in Rick Stein’s French Odyssey (the tv show that was really the starting point of our aspirations to cruise the canals of southern France) and because it is not a big city it seemed like it would be a great stop to catch our breath before we embarked on our trip to Provence.

Apart from the market we didn’t know much about it, so I must be honest in saying that we had no real expectations; apart from buying some great produce at the market that we could make back in the self-catering apartment we rented!

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We arrived by train and because we only stayed two nights we set off to explore the medieval center of town straightaway.  I was immediately taken with how picturesque it was.  I loved the streetlights in the streets surrounding our apartment and the buildings were so beautiful.  The Canal de la Robine goes through the middle of town and each bridge that crosses the canal was covered in beautiful flower baskets.  I just loved the feel of the Narbonne.  It felt authentically French; it was without pretense, without masses of tourists and without trying to be anything that it was not.

We found our way to the tourist office, which was not far from the Pont des Marchands, or Merchant bridge, which basically is the foundation for a row of houses and shops.  (It actually reminded me of a miniature version of the Ponte Vecchio.)

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Armed with a map in hand, we were amazed at all that Narbonne had to offer.  It might be a small city but it had so many hidden treasures.  It is hard to pick just a few (and we definitely did not get to see all that we would have liked to) but here are our favourites:

Cathedrale de St-Just and St-Pasteur

Building on the cathedral started in 1272.  If you climb the adjacent Donjon Gilles Aycelin you can really marvel at the architectural beauty.

The Roman Horreum

This was a fantastic experience and a must do if you visit Narbonne.  It was a Roman underground warehouse and dates back to the end of the first century BC.  It has been set up with a wonderful display of light and sound… goosebump stuff!

Musee Lapidaire

This is another must do.  Inside the old church of Notre Dame de La Lamourguier about 1 300 blocks of stone from all kinds of Roman buildings are housed.  We paid for our entrance tickets and when the door opened I literally gasped for air – the setting is that beautiful.  (The lady selling the tickets was bursting with pride; the biggest smile on her face!)

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For the culinary part of our visit we spent quality time in Les Halles de Narbonne.  We arrived early morning and drank coffee with the locals at one of the coffee bars inside.  And then we went on the hunt for what we came for… sardines!  Rick Stein made sardines on the barbeque when he was there and although we would not have the luxury of that, we hoped to pick up a few that we could fry with some butter, garlic, lemon and parsley back in our little apartment.  Oh, and we were not disappointed.  Apart from all the wonderful seafood on offer, the market was brimming with everything your heart can desire.  One can easily stay in Narbonne a month and would still not be able to eat your way through the market!

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Our supper that night consisted out of a starter of fried sardines and a main of fresh pasta with clams, tomatoes and parsley, while we sipped wine from the region.

So Monday was a public holiday in South Africa and hubby and I had some gardening to do… more specifically, it was time to harvest our olives!  After such hard labour we sat back with a glass of chilled dry rosé and barbequed a few sardines.  Although this can hardly be called a recipe – because it really just relies on the wonderful flavour of the fish and the smokiness of the barbeque – here is our take on sardines on the barbeque.  We enjoyed it with our fond memories of Narbonne.

Sardines on the barbeque

(serves 2)

Ingredients:

6 sardines, gutted and cleaned

3 tablespoons of olive oil

Juice of half a lemon

Handful of roughly chopped parsley

Coarse sea salt flakes

Method:

  1. Light barbeque and wait for the coals to get hot
  2. Rub the fish with olive oil and sprinkle with lemon juice and salt
  3. Place the fish on the barbeque once the coals are really hot and grill for 6 minutes on each side
  4. Remove from heat, sprinkle with parsley and lemon juice
  5. Serve with lemon wedges and a side salad

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Venice; a feast for the senses

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The Grand Canal at sunset

Venice was nothing like I expected.  Sure, we’ve seen it on tv many times before and we knew it was going to be absolutely stunning, but arriving at Santa Lucia station and walking out onto the Grand Canal rendered me completely immovable, with the exception of my jaw dropping to the floor and my eyes popping out my head.  I was spellbound.  And no matter how hard I try, my words will never be able to do justice to just how beautiful and mesmerizing Venice is.

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Our first look down the Grand Canal

When I eventually came out of my daze, hubby and I went off to find the vaporetto (water bus) stop.  It was a bit of a mission to find out which one to take and when it arrived it was packed.  Hubby and I managed to squeeze in quite near to the front but we did not mind one bit as it gave us fantastic photographic opportunities.  Off we went down the Grand Canal, gaping at the splendour of it all.  We became aware of some commotion behind us at some stage; someone shouting really loudly, but nothing could take our attention away from the spectacle that is Venice.  I felt like Angelina Jolie in the The Tourist (albeit a tired, hot and sweaty version… with a heavy suitcase…) but I could imagine myself getting…

Vaporetto’s are really packed
Getting shouted at is worth it!

 

My daydream was rudely interrupted by a tap on the shoulder; rather an elbow in the ribs to be more exact.  The elbow belonged to an elderly lady, red in the face, shouting in my face “Attenzione! Attenzione! Attenzione!” She was clearly the source of the commotion that we’ve been ignoring, and we were actually the cause of it!  She, being a local resident, was not at all impressed by two silly tourists blocking her exit from the water bus!  She was shouting all kinds of, what I decided to take for Italian pleasantries (!) at us, while wiping the sweat of her brow.  We tried to apologize in our best Italian and with one last infuriated look our way she took her leave!  But we were not in the least bit offended.  We were in Venice.

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View down the Grand Canal from our vantage point on the vaporetto!
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More views from the vaporetto

We went to Venice because it is one of those bucket-list places.  There is something about this city built on top of the water that is just magical.  Its got a charm that is indescribable.  And the feeling that you get from it will never escape you.  Whenever anyone would ever utter the word “Venice” again, you will always yearn to go back to it.

An added bonus was the food we tasted there.  The shops have the most beautiful way of displaying even the simplest things.  We walked past a shop that sold dried pasta; complete with farfalle inspired by the Italian flag!  And restaurants would advertise their seafood in a dazzling display (especially the touristy ones!).  We were lucky to have found some really great little restaurants tucked away in small side streets as we did not stay so close to the tourist centre.  On our first evening we had amazing seafood with pasta.  What still amazes me about pasta in Italy is how simple they make it.  Not smothered in all kinds of thick and creamy sauces like we are typically used to, but rather letting the ingredients shine and the pasta really just becomes a vehicle so mop up all the natural goodness and flavours of the star ingredients.

Look! Italian flag pasta!
Restaurants showing off
Fantastic first night supper

The next day, we decided to just walk the streets without a map.  What an adventure.  It was amazing and we came across little squares and cafés we would have otherwise probably missed.  (We also discovered one or two dead ends!)  Lunch was in some neighbourhood restaurant where no one spoke a word of English and menus were only available in Italian.  It was filled with locals and I would have rather died than to take out my camera and take a photo!  We managed to order fegato alla veneziana (calf’s liver and onions) for hubby and pizza for me.  (Yes, not the quintessential Venetian dish, but I am a bit of a pizza addict and any pizza in Italy must be the real deal, right!)  It was simply delicious.  And we had to finish it off with tiramisu, of course!  There is no photos to show for it, which probably will necessitate that we go back there again one day!

Not that you need any excuse to go back to Venice.  I find it hard to describe the feeling I had when we were there.  I have tried to give a little glimpse of it above and when I read it back it seems so inadequate.  Maybe music can do it justice.

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The Rialto bridge at night

This is part of the soundtrack from the movie, The Tourist.  I think they have the music just spot on – every time I listen to it, it takes me back to that magical moment I first laid my eyes on the Grand Canal.  Click here and listen to at least about 45 seconds in… To me that is the music my soul makes when I think of Venice.  It is an incredibly special place and I am so grateful that I’ve had the opportunity to see it.  I truly hope I can go back one day.

PS:  And picking photos for this piece was agony!  I wish I could post all 1 032 we took!

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Piazza San Marco viewed from the sea

Italian style Bistecca

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The beautiful Ponte Vecchio

One of my favourite parts of Florence is Piazza della Signoria.  It is located near the imposing Ponte Vecchio, spanning the Arno River.  It is truly the ‘open air art museum’ so many travel books refer to.  Walking in between the copy of Michelangelo’s David, Perseus with Medusa’s head and the Medici lions, you can’t help but feel like a culture vulture!  And, if that is not enough arts for you, the Uffizi Gallery is just around the corner.

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The Palazzo Vecchio on the Piazza della Signoria

Hubby and I chose the perfect day for an outing to Uffizi: windy, with thunder clouds looming in the sky.  We started out all excited, admiring each piece of art we walked by.  Slowly the admiration turned to awe as we marvelled at the hall upon hall, each filled with exquisite art and sculptures.  But as the hours passed, the wonderment slowly started turning into a feeling of trepidation, especially when we realised that after four hours we probably did not even see half of the things on display yet.  And when we finally arrived at the Uffizi rooftop café and even it was closed, desperation took over and I thought to myself that I might never make it out alive again!

 

Luckily we eventually managed to find our escape and headed towards the Piazza del Duomo.  On the way there the clouds finally gave in and it started to pour down with rain.  After our exhausting day I really started to feel sorry for myself (and my feet in particular), when hubby spotted a little trattoria.  What a lovely place.  The décor was so special; wagon wheels against the walls, filled with wine corks!  The aroma from the kitchen made our mouths water.  So with a lovely glass of Chianti in hand, we studied the menu and finally decided on a wild boar stew (have to try something new every now and again) and a bistecca Fiorentina for supper.  Red wine and red meat, just the thing to comfort you after a long and tiring day!  Hubby had the wild boar and it was truly delicious, with a rich tomato based sauce.  The steak was waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay to much for me to finish but was really cooked to perfection.  (However, not the best thing to have this meal if you still need to walk back to your hotel afterwards!)

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The little haven we discovered!

Seeing that this was a particularly trying week for me, what better way to start off the weekend than with the comfort food that includes some good meat and good wine.  So with that said, buon appetito!

Italian style Bistecca 

(serves 2)

Ingredients:

2 T-bone steaks (about 350g each)

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon chopped thyme (fresh)

Salt and pepper to taste

300 ml chicken stock

2 corn on the cob

125g polenta

200g baby spinach

1 lemon, cut into wedges

Method:

  1. Fill a pot with water, enough so that it will cover the corn, and bring to the boil.
  2. Once the water reaches boiling point, add the corn and boil for 10 minutes.
  3. Remove from the water, rub with half the butter and season with salt and pepper.
  4. Place the corn on a griddle pan and char the the corn slightly.
  5. When done, slice off the kernels (holding the corn upright and cutting top to bottom).  Set aside.
  6. Add the chicken stock to a pot and bring to the boil.
  7. Add the polenta to the stock by whisking it in. Cook for 25 minutes, until creamy.
  8. Rub the steaks with the olive oil, thyme, salt and pepper.
  9. Get your griddle pan really hot and fry for 4 minutes on each side. Remove from pan and cover the meat with some foil.  Leave the meat to rest for 10 minutes.
  10. Heat a little butter in a pan and add the spinach and corn.  Just warm it through so that the spinach wilts.
  11. When serving, place the polenta on the plate and put the steak on top of the polenta.
  12. Place the spinach and corn on top of the steak.
  13. Drizzle the left-over meat juices over the steak and serve with lemon wedges on the side.

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Passion fruit crème brûlée

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When life gives you lemons, make lemonade.

Last week I was in the fortunate position to be gifted with something a bit less sour! Firstly some eggs from my boss (at work, that is!).  She has her own chickens at home, roaming around her yard, so free-range eggs are always in abundance at her house.  Secondly I received a whole bunch of passion fruit from a friend who has a real enthusiasm for organic and sustainable living and has really green fingers.

Most mornings I have some eggs for breakfast; it’s quick and simple and it keeps me going throughout the day.  But being gifted with these eggs I did not feel it would do them justice to just do a quick scramble.  And the passion fruit really needed to be celebrated.  On the day I took them home I cut one open and ate it with a spoon straight from the shell; it was delicious and sweet and the smell was intoxicating.  It tasted like carefree summer days!

So what to do with these bountiful gifts?  When in doubt, I always turn to my trusted recipe books and as usual they did not let me down.  In Rick Stein’s French Odyssey he has this beautiful recipe for passion fruit crème brûlée with passion fruit jellies.  It sounded lovely.  However, I must be honest and say that I cheated a bit – the jellies were going to take too much time to make on a Sunday morning and in his recipe he rests his cream mixture overnight to really soak up the vanilla flavours.  So I improvised a little bit… and I was still really pleased with the way it came out.

Here’s to the flavours of summer!  (And I am still going to try those jellies sometime!)

Passion fruit crème brûlée

(serves 6)

Ingredients:

1 vanilla pod

600ml double cream

8 egg yolks

100g caster sugar

200ml passion fruit puree

Method:

  1. Pre-heat your oven to 130°
  2. Cut the vanilla pod open lengthwise and scrape out the seeds
  3. Place the cream in a medium pan and add the vanilla seeds and bring slowly to the boil (I put the actual pod in as well to get the maximum flavour out of it)IMG_3330
  4. Once brought up to the boil, remove from the stove and leave to cool (I poured the liquid out into a separate bowl, so that it cools quicker; you can strain it at this point to make sure that no pieces of the vanilla pod is left)
  5. Whisk the egg yolks and 50g sugar until it turns thick and pale
  6. Slowly drizzle the cream into the egg mixture, whisking continuously (be sure that your cream mixture has cooled down enough, else you will have scrambled eggs!)
  7. Add the passion fruit puree to the mixture and mix well through
  8. Place 6 ramekins inside a deep roasting tray
  9. Pour the brûlée mixture in a jug from which you can easy pour it into the ramekins, filling it right to the top (I was a bit over zealous with the mixing in point 7 and this made my mixture a bit foamy, so although I filled them to the top, during the baking process they did flatten a bit – be warned!)
  10. Transfer the tray to the oven and then pour enough boiling water in the tray to come half way up the sides of the ramekinsIMG_3341
  11. Bake the brûlées for 50 minutes (they should have a slight wobble when you take them out)
  12. Remove the ramekins from the tray and place them in the fridge to cool
  13. Once you are ready to serve, sprinkle the remainder of the sugar evenly over the top of each brûlée
  14. Either put them under a grill for 1 to 2 minutes until the sugar has melted and go a golden brown or you can use a blow torch (I thought this was the perfect excuse to finally get a cheffy gadget!)IMG_3346

About things that must be eaten

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Each of our excursions to foreign soil invariably comes with a list of all the things that must be seen, and in our case, that must be eaten as well!  Food is forever entwined in our travel experiences and it just adds another dimension to our memories.

There are many things that have featured on our obligatory “must consume” lists and to pick just a few is akin to torture.  Actually, come to think of it I know this is not going to be the last you hear of this…!  But taking that first bite step always helps…

Pissaladière

This lovely ‘pizza’ has its origins in Nice, in the south of France.  The base is slightly ticker than that of a pizza and it is topped with caramelised onions, anchovies and olives.  I always wanted to taste it, but could never quite imagine what the flavour would be like.  I waited until we reached the beautiful little city of Narbonne and scoffed my first slice in Les Halles de Narbonne.  It was amazing!  I never knew onions could be so sweet.  The salty anchovies and bitter olives beautifully complements the almost jam-like onions. YUM!  After that holiday, it was the first thing we made when we were back home!

Beef tartare

This is another one that I wanted to try in France.  This is probably not to everyone’s’ taste.   It is a meat dish made from finely chopped raw beef, served with onions and capers, with a raw egg yolk to top it off.  Coincidently, I also had this in Narbonne, in a little restaurant opposite the market.  I awaited my order with trepidation.  I do eat beef carpaccio and have my steaks medium rare, but I was not sure just how my body would react.  Turns out, my body loves it!  You can really taste the flavour of the meat if you have it in this way.  And the egg yolk (which was probably what I was most afraid of!) just melts away in the background and just gives a silky taste to the dish.  Loved it!

Scotch egg

Perhaps not as sophisticated as a beef tartare, but I really wanted to try this British speciality.  A scotch egg is made up from a hard-boiled egg, around which a layer of sausage meat is formed into a ball shape.  The ball is then coated in bread crumbs and deep fried.  After a morning exploring London, we stopped over at Borough Market, where stalls are spread out under high railway lines.  We ordered our scotch egg with some sweet potato fries and plonked down on the grass next to Southwark Cathedral.  The scotch egg tastes exactly as you think it would; egg and sausage with a crispy crumb.  But if you are tired after walking about the whole morning, just the thing to give you energy for the next stretch.

Roasted chestnuts

This was not something on our must have list as, to be honest.  However, when we arrived in Paris we saw men pushing shopping trolleys around, containing a drum, in which they seemingly made fire, topped with a large round disk.  On top, warming up, was snails… or what looked like snails from afar… if you use your imagination.  (Or maybe we were just really tired from our journey there!)  Eventually we realised that we were actually looking at chestnuts roasting.  It has a lovely buttery taste with a touch of smoke from the fire; the perfect snack for a blustery, chilly day in Paris.

Vlaamse frites

I suppose frites (chips) is chips is chips.  But in Amsterdam you get them with so many sauces!  My heading should probably be “Sauce in Amsterdam, with frites”.  (As if anyone really needs an excuse to eat more starch.  Sigh) There is the lovely thick mayonnaise which is always a winner, and I also enjoy mixing some tomato sauce with mayonnaise.  Tartar sauce, chilli sauce, garlic mayonnaise… but my favourite is the stoofvlees (stewed meat) sauce.  Delicious!  Also, Amsterdam was a real explosion of people, sights and sounds to me…  I have not seen anything like it.  So it was better to constantly walk around nibbling a chip or two for fear that my mouth would just hang open in wonderment all the time.

Champagne

The first time we went to France we took a day-trip from Paris to the Champagne region.  We visited Épernay, home to Moët & Chandon and Reims, home to G. H. Mumm & Cie.  The cellar tours were amazing; seemingly endless tunnels under ground filled with bottles and bottles of sparkly goodness.  The history and the craft… really special.  We were lucky enough to do champagne tasting at both these wonderful producers (because let’s face it, this is not something I can afford to buy everyday… or even every year) so to say that I sipped on champagne in Champagne is definitely a highlight.

… to be continued … until we eat again!

 

Lamb shank ragu with homemade cavatelli pasta

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Florence and the Tuscan hills at twilight

Italy was nothing like I thought it would be.   I thought I would really be keen on the history, the culture, the food, the wine… but I was wrong.  I didn’t like it.  No.  Instead I fell completely and utterly in love with each and every aspect of this incredible country.  From the breath-taking beauty of Venice to the magical Amalfi coast, with incredible Tuscany in between.

We spent our time in Tuscany using Florence as a base.  It was so much more than I expected!  It is a city of art, culture, great food and music.  Everywhere we went we were greeted with a tune; from street performers playing as twilight fell, while we marvelled at the Tuscan hills twinkling with lights and while famous Renaissance landmarks stood silhouetted in the foreground gazing out from Piazzale Michelangelo, to being caught up in marching bands walking down the street towards the marvellous Piazza della Signoria and its line-up of sculptures.  Life had a soundtrack when we were there!  Florence is really a place I think I could call home.  Sitting next to the beautiful Arno River, watching row boats go by, sipping aperol (without pulling a face), life felt pretty good.  (OK, if you’ve been following my blog you would know aperol is not a personal favourite… but as they say – when in Rome… or Florence!)

Lovely farm
Great food, great views

On one of the days we explored the Tuscan country side, we stopped for lunch at a farm called Fattoria Poggio Alloro.  It is just outside San Gimignano where you can find twelve beautifully preserved medieval towers (in its day it had seventy!). The farm produce and sell everything from olive oil, pasta, cured meats and of course, glorious wine!  Hubby and I first did a cellar tour before we sat down to an amazing lunch.  The setting was really what Italian dreams are made of, with spectacular views over the Tuscan country side and the towers of San Gimignano looming on the horizon.

Beautiful Tuscan landscape
San Gimignano in the background

Lunch consisted of lovely fresh breads with some prosciutto, salami, olive oil and balsamic vinegar.  Main course was the kind of Italian pasta you hope to have on a visit to Tuscany, served with a rich, delicious meat ragu and a side salad.  And don’t forget the wines!  We ended off with a sweet dessert wine.  Simply put – it was a foodie’s heaven.

So tonight, while weather is cooling down here in Cape Town and light rain falls outside, hubby and I thought we would pay homage to this wonderful meal we had.  Definitely a good way to start the weekend.

Lamb shank ragu with homemade cavatelli pasta

(serves 4)

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First get started on your lamb ragu.  While that cooks away, you can start on your homemade pasta.

We use a pressure cooker to cook the lamb shank quickly.  If you don’t have a pressure cooker you should aim to cook your meat for about 2 hours to ensure it is nice and soft.

Lamb shank ragu

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons of olive oil

500g lamb shank

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

4 medium carrots, peeled, and sliced diagonally

2 celery stalks, chopped

½ cup of frozen peas

Bunch of rosemary and thyme (tie it up, so you can take it out easier at the end)

1 cup of good red wine

1 tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce

1 cup of water

1 teaspoon of sugar

2 tablespoons tomato puree

400g tin of diced tomatoes

1 chicken stock cube

Salt and Pepper to taste

Method:

  1. Heat the olive oil in a pressure cooker over medium heat. Add the lamb shank and fry until brown on all sides.
  2. Add the onions and fry until golden brown. Add the garlic and stir for a minute longer.
  3. Add the carrots and celery and fry for another 2 minutes until the vegetables start to soften.
  4. Add the cup of red wine and let the alcohol cook down.
  5. Add the tin of chopped tomatoes, tomato puree, Worcestershire sauce, and the cup of water.
  6. Next, add the sugar, stock cube and season with salt and pepper.
  7. Now add your bunch of herbs and close the pressure cooker.
  8. Cook on medium heat for an hour. Now get on with your homemade pasta – see the recipe and method further down…
  1. After an hour, remove the lamb shank from the pressure cooker. Discard the bunch of herbs.
  2. Shred the meat off the bone – it should be soft and very tender. Discard the bone and any fatty pieces.
  3. Reduce the sauce in the pressure cooker pot (lid off) until it has thickened.
  4. Add the peas to the sauce and return the meat to the pot.
  5. Simmer at low heat, while you boil your pasta
Fry lamb shank until brown and veggies until soft
Add wine and cook down
Add rest of liquids and add herbs. Cook for an hour.
Remove from pressure cooker.
Shred the meet fine.
Reduce the sauce in the pot.

Homemade cavatelli pasta

Ingredients:

500g of “00” flour

Pinch of salt

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 ¼ cups of cold water

Method:

  1. Place the flour in a large bowl. Make a little well in the center.  Add the salt, oil and water and mix with a fork until a dough is formed.  (It works best to get it together in a bowl and then turn it out on your counter and work into a firm ball.)
  2. Divide the dough into small pieces and roll it on your countertop to form a “sausage”/rope that is about 1cm thick. Start by working your hands from the inside to the outside to try and keep the shape as even as possible.
  3. Using a knife, slice the dough into about 2 to 3 cm pieces.
  4. Next, shape the cavatelli with your thumb. Put the piece of dough on the counter and push the dough against the countertop away from you so that the dough stretches slightly and folds around itself, creating a little pocket in the middle.
  5. Place the cavatelli on a lightly floured baking tray (do not let them touch) and let it rest for 40 minutes.
  6. Bring a pot of salted water to the boil. Toss the cavatelli in and cook until it floats to the top and stays there.  It takes approximately 3 – 8 minutes, depending on the size of your pasta.
  7. Transfer the pasta to a strainer and drain.
Make your cavatelli by pressing it down with your thumb on to the countertop, pushing away from you
Roll the pasta in thin “sausages”/ropes
It should be no more than 1cm thick

Lastly, add your drained pasta to the ragu and let it simmer for 10 minutes to absorb all the lovely flavours of your ragu.

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Add your pasta to your ragu

Serve with some grated parmesan.

Fantastico!

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Aubergine á la Avignon

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Food is such a big part of our lives.  Just about everything has a food angle to it!

“It’s our anniversary, where are we going to go for supper?”  “Saturday looks like it is going to be a great day for the beach – shall we pack a nice picnic basket?”  “The in-laws are coming over for Sunday lunch – what new dessert recipe can we try?”  “Let’s watch some videos of our trip to France; then we make some Frenchy foods.”

Benjamin Franklin said “Eat to live, don’t live to eat.”  Well, thank goodness then that I need to eat to live, because I really like living, which means I can really like eating!

We have never returned from our travels with bad food memories (apart from one really bad pizza we had in Rome; think the restaurant was too close to a drain because the smells were awful!).  There are always things that we’ve tasted on our journeys that we try and replicate at home.  A recent favourite is from our trip to Provence a few months ago.

Avignon was our base.  On the must-do list was a picnic on the Ile de Barthalese with its iconic view over Pont Saint-Bénézet and the Palais des Papes.  We decided to stop over at Les Halles to pick up some substance for our al fresco lunch.  Walking around, the “Aubergines á l’ Italionne” caught my eye.  (I love aubergine – a love that only developed a few years ago.  I blame it on all the badly cooked aubergines I’ve had in my life up until that point!)  It looked so good and smelt divine and when one of the local residents standing in line in front of us chose this for her lunch, the deal was done.  What more do you need than the local stamp of approval?!

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Who would not want to have a picnic if you can have such a view?!

Back at home, in the absence of a recipe, hubby and I only had our taste buds and memory to go on when we tried to recreate the dish.  Here is to encouraging a few more aubergine converts with our version.

Aubergine á la Avignon

(serves 4)

Ingredients:

1 large aubergine

4 tablespoons butter

4 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, chopped finely

1 teaspoon garlic, chopped finely

400g beef mince

1 tin chopped tomatoes

1 ½ teaspoons tomato puree

2 cups water

1 ½  teaspoons of sugar

1 teaspoon of dried Provençal herbs (oregano, thyme, rosemary and basil)

Salt & Pepper to taste

125g mozzarella cheese, grated

Method:

  1. Cut the aubergine lengthways in 1cm thick slices. Keep the skin on.  You need four slices.
  2. Remove the skin of the remainder of the aubergine. Chop into small cubes.
  3. Heat two tablespoons of butter and a tablespoon of olive oil in a pan. Fry two slices of aubergine until soft, turning regularly to ensure a nice brown colour on both sides.
  4. Transfer the aubergines to a baking tray.
  5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 with the remaining two slices of aubergine. (Aubergines love butter so it is better to do them two at a time to ensure each gets enough to keep them soft and get that nice and golden colour.)
  6. Heat a table spoon of olive oil in a pan. Add the chopped aubergine, onions and garlic.
  7. Fry until golden brown and soft.
  8. Remove the aubergine, onion and garlic from the pan and set aside.
  9. Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in the pan and add the mince. Fry until brown.  This really adds to the flavour.
  10. Once the mince is brown, add the chopped aubergine, onions and garlic back in.
  11. Add the chopped tomatoes, tomato puree, two cups of water, sugar, herbs and salt and pepper.
  12. At this stage, pre-heat the oven (on the grill setting) to 180°C
  13. Let the mince mixture boil until the sauce is reduced completely.
  14. Once done, place some mince on top of each aubergine.
  15. Top it off with grated mozzarella.
  16. Bake in the oven for 10 minutes, until the cheese has melted.
  17. Serve with a salad.
Slice aubergines 1cm thick
Fry until golden brown and transfer to a baking try
Fry chopped aubergines, onions and garlic
Add some herbs for great flavour
Place your mince on top of the aubergine
Sprinkle with cheese and place in the oven

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Voilà! Aubergine á la Avignon

 

Market meandering

~ WorkFoodHome ~ 1 Comment
Colonne de Juillet
Looking towards the Place de la Bastille

I love the fresh produce markets we’ve encountered on our travels to Europe.

One of my favourites is the Marché Bastille in Paris.  From the Place de la Bastille (where the Colonne de Juillet stands in the center) long lines of stalls with colourful canopies stretch out on to the Boulevard Richard Lenoir.  (Caution – crossing the road at the traffic circle can be quite the adrenalin rush!)

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Olives, glorious olives

Hubby and I went fairly early on a Tuesday morning and not knowing exactly where it was, we spotted two elderly ladies with their shopping trolleys heading down the road, looking as if they had things to do and places to get to.  We had hunch that they had to be heading where we wanted to go so we followed them – and we were not wrong!  We were greeted by a food lover’s paradise.

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As much cheese as your heart desires

Walking along the merchants stalls you are tempted with all kinds of delights. There are delectable cheeses (some of the really mature ones not looking safe for human consumption!), a wide selection of fresh meat, from chicken and rabbit to beef and sausages.  And the seafood!  There is such a vast variety.  And it is impossible to ignore the gorgeous piles of fruit and veg (and not looking as if it was just dumped there, but like it was polished and arranged carefully to create beautiful works of art.)  And breads.  Charcuterie.  Olives.  Magnifique!

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The variety of seafood is amazing

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What really enthrals me are the stall holders, and the pride they have in their goods.  You can see it in the way they put it out on display, the way they call you over and confidently offer you a wedge of cheese or a sliver of ham.  On the day we were there, the vendor at one particular fruit stall did not want me to pass by before I did not taste the delicious mangos on offer.  I’m not sure if the mango was really that sweet or if it was his French accent! Either way, I still remember it – just over a year on!

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Foodie inspiration

To top it off, alongside the amazing produce, you will find stands selling all kinds of knickknacks, secondhand clothes, leather bags, shoes and even jewelry.  It’s the mixture of all these things that come together to create the magic of this market.  There is truly something for everyone’s taste (and wallet)!

But it is not only what I see and taste when I visit these places, it is the emotion it evokes.   While browsing the stalls I change from a faltering novice in the kitchen to believing I could be some sassy cook that would even put a Michelin starred chef to shame with what can be produced with the abundance at hand.  Inspired by the fresh produce and the beauty, passion and flair with which it is exhibited makes me believe that cooking should not be difficult – and how could it be with all this inspiration.

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Hubby looking at some caps

The Marché Bastille operates on Thursday, 7am-2.30pm and Sunday, 7am-3pm.

Cabbage, Orange and Apple salad

~ WorkFoodHome ~ 2 Comments

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Having grown up in a home where red meat was the order of the day most days, and veg were limited to potatoes, cauliflower and broccoli, it is no wonder that I am not a big fan of salads.  Either that, or I am just bored with every day go-to Greek salad.  Or could it be because I associated salad with dieting…?!  Let’s not digress.

Currently we are experiencing a heatwave in the Western Cape of South Africa, and these days I find myself on a constant lookout for new and fresh recipes, because let’s face it… on a hot day lounging next to the pool you really just want something that is cool, light and full of flavour.  And because it is not considered proper (by who, I don’t know!) to just have wine for lunch, it means I have to rack my brain to come up with a few different options for a light summer bite.

So at a recent book sale I came across a cookbook published by GQ magazine, entitled “GQ Eats:  The cookbook for men of seriously good taste”.  I had to get it.  Perfect gift for hubby!  (He picked me of course, so his taste is seriously good!)  Also, it doubled as a gift for me too.  The book is filled with quite a few recipes that I would not mind hubby to make for me!

One of the recipes that caught my eye while I was still in the store was a cabbage, orange and apple salad.  Not something I have heard of before, but I could imagine the flavours working together so I could not wait to give it a try.  So last Sunday it was on the menu.  Together with that chilled Sauvignon Blanc, of course!

It is a delicious salad, packed with flavours and textures.  We changed it slightly as the original ingredients in the dressing was not something I could find in any of our local stores.  However, I was really pleased with the outcome.  So much so that it is on the menu again this weekend where I will introduce it to my meat and potato loving family!  Fingers crossed!

Cabbage, Orange and Apple salad

(serves 4)

Ingredients:

For the salad:

150g red cabbage, thinly sliced

2 oranges, peeled and segmented

2 apples, cut into small chunks (not necessary to peel)

20g sultana raisins

15g dried cranberries

70g mixed nuts & seeds (walnuts, almonds & sunflower seeds)

Salt & Pepper for seasoning

Chives to sprinkle over

For the dressing:

50ml orange juice

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1 teaspoon of sugar

Salt & Pepper for seasoning

Method:

  1. Mix the cabbage, orange, apple, raisins, cranberries, nuts and seeds.  Season with salt and black pepper.
  2. Mix the ingredients for the dressing well.
  3. Pour over salad and mix well. Get in there with your hands to ensure all the cabbage is nicely dressed.
  4. Leave in the fridge for at least an hour before serving to ensure flavours develop.
  5. When serving, chop a few chives and sprinkle over the top.

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Why the travel bug bites

~ WorkFoodHome ~ 17 Comments

My dream job would probably be touring the world (seeing it, experiencing it, cooking, eating and drinking it!) with hubby.  Yes, I definitely think so.  The travel bug has bitten and I will never recover from its fever!

But what is it about travelling; why do I love it so much?  Let me count the ways…

The feeling I get when hubby and I sit in the plane, ready to take off; arms locked, holding hands

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Aeroplane selfie

It’s hard to describe the feeling.  Anticipation.  Excitement.  A bit of nerves.  Like it is just me and him against the world (in a good way; not as in some sci-fi movie where we are the only people left to save the world from an alien invasion).  Together we are standing on the edge of the unknown, of an adventure, not knowing what awaits us, but knowing that together will make it through and that we will be forever changed by the experience.  Goosebump stuff!

 

 

The thrill of visiting a country where English is not the first language

The first country we visited where English was not spoken as a first language was France.  We arrived by train at Gare du Nord station and upon getting out on to the platform we were bombarded with everything in French; announcements, signage, people, the whole lot!  I could not see one bit of English anywhere!

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When we exited the metro station we just had to take this picture right on the Champs Elysees.

We honestly spent at least an hour inside that station trying to buy metro tickets and trying to find our way to the subway section.

(The reward was worth it though; we exited the metro at the Charles de Gaulle Etoile stop and as you come up from the stairs the magnificent Arc de Triomphe is right in front of you!)

A couple of years later we arrived back at Gare du Nord.  French/English signs everywhere.  Like they’ve always been. Clearly we were so in awe back then that we never noticed there was English aplenty!

Experiencing different cultures

There is something special about watching other people going about their normal daily routine and seeing how they just do things completely differently. From what they do, to how they do it.  It has definitely inspired some different behaviors from hubby and I; there is always something that you bring back with you and that will forever remain a part of you.

We were staying in a small town on the Amalfi Coast of Italy.  Hubby and I went for an early morning stroll by the little beach, following paths carved in to the rocks right next to the ocean.  On our way back we were met with the sight of people arguing.  It was three elderly ladies and two gentlemen in the water.  Hands waving in the air, gesturing, talking wildly.  I actually felt a bit afraid.  It seemed that someone could be drowned soon.  This was serious.  That’s until we got to the beach and saw them up close.  They were talking and laughing loudly, hands flying through the air as they told their stories.  No arguing there, they were just Italian!

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La Praia beach, Amalfi Coast, Italy

History (and landmarks)

I love history.  Ever since school.  (I don’t think the fact that my history teacher was kind of handsome had anything to do with it; I’ve managed to maintained my love for historic things years after his looks faded!)

Going to cathedrals, museums, visiting old squares and castles, monasteries – I love it, love it, love it!  It is just such an amazing privilege to see something from hundreds of years ago, that has survived all this time.  And not to see in on tv or in a magazine, but in ‘real life’.  I am forever changed by it.  Afterwards, if I see a place I’ve been to on television, I can’t help but see it in a different light, knowing that my footsteps were also once there.

It’s impossible to pick a highlight.  Each place is absolutely special in its own right.  However, the first cathedral we ever saw was the Notre-Dame de Reims in Reims, France.  Because it was the first, it will always have a special place in my heart.

Notre-Dame Des Reims facade
The back is just as beautiful

(Although, I must admit, the Eiffel Tower has some hypnotic power over me.  On each visit to Paris, whenever we pass it on foot, in a bus, on a boat, doesn’t matter how many pictures I have taken, I always have to take just one (or ten) more!)

Fresh produce markets, i.e. food and wine

We really love good food and wine, so it is such a thrill to try new things.  Each time we leave on holiday we go with a list of ‘must-try’ foods and we always come back with newfound  favourite recipes that we will continue to make for the rest of our lives.

 

Les Halles, Avignon, from the outside
Inside, anything your heart desires

The fresh produce markets are incredible.  In South Africa we don’t really have something similar and on the scale as we’ve encountered in Europe.  Because we really enjoy cooking we prefer staying in small apartments so that we can have cooking facilities.  This means we get to shop at the fresh produce markets to our hearts content and then bring it back to our little place to cook.

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Our own old blue door with our apartment just above the little pizzeria

 

Last year we visited Avignon.  We stayed in a wonderful little apartment in the center of the old city.  Just down the road (at 18 Place Pie) was Les Halles (the market).  It was the best experience going there, picking up some ingredients and then heading back to our little home away from home.  Normally when I walk in the streets I always wonder what is behind the old doors and this time we could open up our very own old door!

We spent many evenings cooking our hand-picked local produce, enjoying great local wine and looking out from our balcony at life going by in Avignon below. We really felt local and not like tourists at all.

Then… I also love the planning before the time – that is almost a holiday in itself.  And photography.  Hubby and I are keen photographers, so capturing these amazing places on camera is such a joy.  And fridge magnets.  We bring back a fridge magnet from every town we visit.  We ‘reveal’ them back home over some wine, reminiscing about each place as each little magnet gets its place of honour of the fridge.  And then there is…

Let me (further) count the ways another time!