Steak tartare with pommes frites

IMG_1648
Beautiful Narbonne, where I had my first ever steak tartare

I was still small when I discovered that I did not mind rare (raw!) meat.  I remember when my mom used to buy our meat from the butcher at month-end… A Friday afternoon would be spent packing the meat, sausages and ground beef into portions and packing it into the freezer.  I always tried to sneak a pinch of the ground beef.  I loved the taste of it, but always felt very naughty doing so.  My folks would not ever consider having a steak that was not super well done, so what demented child was I, eating raw meat like that?!  As I got older, much to my relief I came to realise that some people did actually prefer their steaks cooked medium or even medium rare and when I saw beef carpaccio on a menu for the first time I knew that I was fine!

The first time I heard of steak tartare was on my favourite cooking/travel show of all time – Rick Stein’s French Odyssey.  According to him it was a very fashionable dish in France in the sixties and it seemed to have made a comeback in recent years.  In the program he told a story of how, when he’d order it, French waiters would always pull up their noses at him and say indignantly “You know that it is raw, sir!”.  He was delighted by the fact that an Englishman could prove them wrong and eat it without even batting an eyelid.  On the show, when he made it, I was sure that I would love it and therefore when we visited France last year I made sure that I searched it out on the menus!  We found it in a little brasserie in the south west of France in a small city by the name of Narbonne and it was everything I hoped it would be – the meat full of flavour, blended beautifully with the addition of the tangy capers and gherkins, and the egg yolk giving a velvety feel to it all.

So when Frexit hit me last week, I thought back to this must-have dish and hubby and I decided to give it a try and make it ourselves, using Rick Stein’s recipe.  I was so chuffed!  It turned out beautifully and tasted exactly like the dish we had.  (What was different though, is that the restaurant where I had it, served the rest of the ingredients separately from the meat – so that you could add your own quantity of ‘toppings’ to each little bite of beautiful beef.  I must be honest, I actually prefer the way we made it in the recipe below – all mixed together.)

If you are not an adventurous eater this will not be a dish that appeals to you.  But if you wonder about it – try it!  You will not be disappointed!  (You can also start slowly – take that pinch of ground beef sometime!)

Steak tartare with pommes frites

(serves 2)

Ingredients:

300g tail end of beef fillet, straight from the fridge

1 tablespoon capers, finely chopped

2 shallots, fine chopped

2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 gherkin, finely chopped

½ teaspoon sea salt flakes

10 grinds of black pepper

2 medium egg yolks

(Rick Stein added 3 dashes of tabasco sauce to his dish, be we did not.  We served it with tabasco on the side.)

Method:

  1. Trim the meat of all fat and sinew and chop finely by hand.
  2. Put the meat into a bowl with the capers, shallots, parsley, oil, gherkin, salt and pepper.
  3. Mix together lightly two forks and then spoon into the centre of two plates and shape into a neatish round. (We used little round metal moulds to get a nice shape to ours.)
  4. Make a small indent in the top and then gently add an egg yolk to each.
  5. Serve with some pommes frites (good old French fries, if you are not trying to sound fancy!)

IMG_3612

Incredible Narbonne… with sardines on the side

IMG_3233

Last year the holiday I have been dreaming about for so many years finally came to be.  We hired a boat and went cruising down the Canal du Midi in the south of France.  From there we went on to experience the picturesque Provence before finally ending our trip on the beautiful Côte d’Azur.  It took careful planning… how to make the most of our limited time and to stay within budget!

One place that I really wanted to include in our schedule was Narbonne.  Rick Stein briefly visited its fresh produce market (one of the largest in southern France), in Rick Stein’s French Odyssey (the tv show that was really the starting point of our aspirations to cruise the canals of southern France) and because it is not a big city it seemed like it would be a great stop to catch our breath before we embarked on our trip to Provence.

Apart from the market we didn’t know much about it, so I must be honest in saying that we had no real expectations; apart from buying some great produce at the market that we could make back in the self-catering apartment we rented!

IMG_3238

We arrived by train and because we only stayed two nights we set off to explore the medieval center of town straightaway.  I was immediately taken with how picturesque it was.  I loved the streetlights in the streets surrounding our apartment and the buildings were so beautiful.  The Canal de la Robine goes through the middle of town and each bridge that crosses the canal was covered in beautiful flower baskets.  I just loved the feel of the Narbonne.  It felt authentically French; it was without pretense, without masses of tourists and without trying to be anything that it was not.

We found our way to the tourist office, which was not far from the Pont des Marchands, or Merchant bridge, which basically is the foundation for a row of houses and shops.  (It actually reminded me of a miniature version of the Ponte Vecchio.)

IMG_1511

Armed with a map in hand, we were amazed at all that Narbonne had to offer.  It might be a small city but it had so many hidden treasures.  It is hard to pick just a few (and we definitely did not get to see all that we would have liked to) but here are our favourites:

Cathedrale de St-Just and St-Pasteur

Building on the cathedral started in 1272.  If you climb the adjacent Donjon Gilles Aycelin you can really marvel at the architectural beauty.

The Roman Horreum

This was a fantastic experience and a must do if you visit Narbonne.  It was a Roman underground warehouse and dates back to the end of the first century BC.  It has been set up with a wonderful display of light and sound… goosebump stuff!

Musee Lapidaire

This is another must do.  Inside the old church of Notre Dame de La Lamourguier about 1 300 blocks of stone from all kinds of Roman buildings are housed.  We paid for our entrance tickets and when the door opened I literally gasped for air – the setting is that beautiful.  (The lady selling the tickets was bursting with pride; the biggest smile on her face!)

IMG_1589

For the culinary part of our visit we spent quality time in Les Halles de Narbonne.  We arrived early morning and drank coffee with the locals at one of the coffee bars inside.  And then we went on the hunt for what we came for… sardines!  Rick Stein made sardines on the barbeque when he was there and although we would not have the luxury of that, we hoped to pick up a few that we could fry with some butter, garlic, lemon and parsley back in our little apartment.  Oh, and we were not disappointed.  Apart from all the wonderful seafood on offer, the market was brimming with everything your heart can desire.  One can easily stay in Narbonne a month and would still not be able to eat your way through the market!

IMG_1521

Our supper that night consisted out of a starter of fried sardines and a main of fresh pasta with clams, tomatoes and parsley, while we sipped wine from the region.

So Monday was a public holiday in South Africa and hubby and I had some gardening to do… more specifically, it was time to harvest our olives!  After such hard labour we sat back with a glass of chilled dry rosé and barbequed a few sardines.  Although this can hardly be called a recipe – because it really just relies on the wonderful flavour of the fish and the smokiness of the barbeque – here is our take on sardines on the barbeque.  We enjoyed it with our fond memories of Narbonne.

Sardines on the barbeque

(serves 2)

Ingredients:

6 sardines, gutted and cleaned

3 tablespoons of olive oil

Juice of half a lemon

Handful of roughly chopped parsley

Coarse sea salt flakes

Method:

  1. Light barbeque and wait for the coals to get hot
  2. Rub the fish with olive oil and sprinkle with lemon juice and salt
  3. Place the fish on the barbeque once the coals are really hot and grill for 6 minutes on each side
  4. Remove from heat, sprinkle with parsley and lemon juice
  5. Serve with lemon wedges and a side salad

IMG_3373