Travel

Italian style Bistecca

~ WorkFoodHome ~ Leave a comment
IMG_1684
The beautiful Ponte Vecchio

One of my favourite parts of Florence is Piazza della Signoria.  It is located near the imposing Ponte Vecchio, spanning the Arno River.  It is truly the ‘open air art museum’ so many travel books refer to.  Walking in between the copy of Michelangelo’s David, Perseus with Medusa’s head and the Medici lions, you can’t help but feel like a culture vulture!  And, if that is not enough arts for you, the Uffizi Gallery is just around the corner.

IMG_1700
The Palazzo Vecchio on the Piazza della Signoria

Hubby and I chose the perfect day for an outing to Uffizi: windy, with thunder clouds looming in the sky.  We started out all excited, admiring each piece of art we walked by.  Slowly the admiration turned to awe as we marvelled at the hall upon hall, each filled with exquisite art and sculptures.  But as the hours passed, the wonderment slowly started turning into a feeling of trepidation, especially when we realised that after four hours we probably did not even see half of the things on display yet.  And when we finally arrived at the Uffizi rooftop café and even it was closed, desperation took over and I thought to myself that I might never make it out alive again!

 

Luckily we eventually managed to find our escape and headed towards the Piazza del Duomo.  On the way there the clouds finally gave in and it started to pour down with rain.  After our exhausting day I really started to feel sorry for myself (and my feet in particular), when hubby spotted a little trattoria.  What a lovely place.  The décor was so special; wagon wheels against the walls, filled with wine corks!  The aroma from the kitchen made our mouths water.  So with a lovely glass of Chianti in hand, we studied the menu and finally decided on a wild boar stew (have to try something new every now and again) and a bistecca Fiorentina for supper.  Red wine and red meat, just the thing to comfort you after a long and tiring day!  Hubby had the wild boar and it was truly delicious, with a rich tomato based sauce.  The steak was waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay to much for me to finish but was really cooked to perfection.  (However, not the best thing to have this meal if you still need to walk back to your hotel afterwards!)

Europa 049
The little haven we discovered!

Seeing that this was a particularly trying week for me, what better way to start off the weekend than with the comfort food that includes some good meat and good wine.  So with that said, buon appetito!

Italian style Bistecca 

(serves 2)

Ingredients:

2 T-bone steaks (about 350g each)

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon chopped thyme (fresh)

Salt and pepper to taste

300 ml chicken stock

2 corn on the cob

125g polenta

200g baby spinach

1 lemon, cut into wedges

Method:

  1. Fill a pot with water, enough so that it will cover the corn, and bring to the boil.
  2. Once the water reaches boiling point, add the corn and boil for 10 minutes.
  3. Remove from the water, rub with half the butter and season with salt and pepper.
  4. Place the corn on a griddle pan and char the the corn slightly.
  5. When done, slice off the kernels (holding the corn upright and cutting top to bottom).  Set aside.
  6. Add the chicken stock to a pot and bring to the boil.
  7. Add the polenta to the stock by whisking it in. Cook for 25 minutes, until creamy.
  8. Rub the steaks with the olive oil, thyme, salt and pepper.
  9. Get your griddle pan really hot and fry for 4 minutes on each side. Remove from pan and cover the meat with some foil.  Leave the meat to rest for 10 minutes.
  10. Heat a little butter in a pan and add the spinach and corn.  Just warm it through so that the spinach wilts.
  11. When serving, place the polenta on the plate and put the steak on top of the polenta.
  12. Place the spinach and corn on top of the steak.
  13. Drizzle the left-over meat juices over the steak and serve with lemon wedges on the side.

IMG_3350

IMG_0003_2

About things that must be eaten

~ WorkFoodHome ~ Leave a comment

Each of our excursions to foreign soil invariably comes with a list of all the things that must be seen, and in our case, that must be eaten as well!  Food is forever entwined in our travel experiences and it just adds another dimension to our memories.

There are many things that have featured on our obligatory “must consume” lists and to pick just a few is akin to torture.  Actually, come to think of it I know this is not going to be the last you hear of this…!  But taking that first bite step always helps…

Pissaladière

This lovely ‘pizza’ has its origins in Nice, in the south of France.  The base is slightly ticker than that of a pizza and it is topped with caramelised onions, anchovies and olives.  I always wanted to taste it, but could never quite imagine what the flavour would be like.  I waited until we reached the beautiful little city of Narbonne and scoffed my first slice in Les Halles de Narbonne.  It was amazing!  I never knew onions could be so sweet.  The salty anchovies and bitter olives beautifully complements the almost jam-like onions. YUM!  After that holiday, it was the first thing we made when we were back home!

Beef tartare

This is another one that I wanted to try in France.  This is probably not to everyone’s’ taste.   It is a meat dish made from finely chopped raw beef, served with onions and capers, with a raw egg yolk to top it off.  Coincidently, I also had this in Narbonne, in a little restaurant opposite the market.  I awaited my order with trepidation.  I do eat beef carpaccio and have my steaks medium rare, but I was not sure just how my body would react.  Turns out, my body loves it!  You can really taste the flavour of the meat if you have it in this way.  And the egg yolk (which was probably what I was most afraid of!) just melts away in the background and just gives a silky taste to the dish.  Loved it!

Scotch egg

Perhaps not as sophisticated as a beef tartare, but I really wanted to try this British speciality.  A scotch egg is made up from a hard-boiled egg, around which a layer of sausage meat is formed into a ball shape.  The ball is then coated in bread crumbs and deep fried.  After a morning exploring London, we stopped over at Borough Market, where stalls are spread out under high railway lines.  We ordered our scotch egg with some sweet potato fries and plonked down on the grass next to Southwark Cathedral.  The scotch egg tastes exactly as you think it would; egg and sausage with a crispy crumb.  But if you are tired after walking about the whole morning, just the thing to give you energy for the next stretch.

Roasted chestnuts

This was not something on our must have list as, to be honest.  However, when we arrived in Paris we saw men pushing shopping trolleys around, containing a drum, in which they seemingly made fire, topped with a large round disk.  On top, warming up, was snails… or what looked like snails from afar… if you use your imagination.  (Or maybe we were just really tired from our journey there!)  Eventually we realised that we were actually looking at chestnuts roasting.  It has a lovely buttery taste with a touch of smoke from the fire; the perfect snack for a blustery, chilly day in Paris.

Vlaamse frites

I suppose frites (chips) is chips is chips.  But in Amsterdam you get them with so many sauces!  My heading should probably be “Sauce in Amsterdam, with frites”.  (As if anyone really needs an excuse to eat more starch.  Sigh) There is the lovely thick mayonnaise which is always a winner, and I also enjoy mixing some tomato sauce with mayonnaise.  Tartar sauce, chilli sauce, garlic mayonnaise… but my favourite is the stoofvlees (stewed meat) sauce.  Delicious!  Also, Amsterdam was a real explosion of people, sights and sounds to me…  I have not seen anything like it.  So it was better to constantly walk around nibbling a chip or two for fear that my mouth would just hang open in wonderment all the time.

Champagne

The first time we went to France we took a day-trip from Paris to the Champagne region.  We visited Épernay, home to Moët & Chandon and Reims, home to G. H. Mumm & Cie.  The cellar tours were amazing; seemingly endless tunnels under ground filled with bottles and bottles of sparkly goodness.  The history and the craft… really special.  We were lucky enough to do champagne tasting at both these wonderful producers (because let’s face it, this is not something I can afford to buy everyday… or even every year) so to say that I sipped on champagne in Champagne is definitely a highlight.

… to be continued … until we eat again!

 

Lamb shank ragu with homemade cavatelli pasta

~ WorkFoodHome ~ Leave a comment
IMG_0854
Florence and the Tuscan hills at twilight

Italy was nothing like I thought it would be.   I thought I would really be keen on the history, the culture, the food, the wine… but I was wrong.  I didn’t like it.  No.  Instead I fell completely and utterly in love with each and every aspect of this incredible country.  From the breath-taking beauty of Venice to the magical Amalfi coast, with incredible Tuscany in between.

We spent our time in Tuscany using Florence as a base.  It was so much more than I expected!  It is a city of art, culture, great food and music.  Everywhere we went we were greeted with a tune; from street performers playing as twilight fell, while we marvelled at the Tuscan hills twinkling with lights and while famous Renaissance landmarks stood silhouetted in the foreground gazing out from Piazzale Michelangelo, to being caught up in marching bands walking down the street towards the marvellous Piazza della Signoria and its line-up of sculptures.  Life had a soundtrack when we were there!  Florence is really a place I think I could call home.  Sitting next to the beautiful Arno River, watching row boats go by, sipping aperol (without pulling a face), life felt pretty good.  (OK, if you’ve been following my blog you would know aperol is not a personal favourite… but as they say – when in Rome… or Florence!)

Lovely farm
Great food, great views

On one of the days we explored the Tuscan country side, we stopped for lunch at a farm called Fattoria Poggio Alloro.  It is just outside San Gimignano where you can find twelve beautifully preserved medieval towers (in its day it had seventy!). The farm produce and sell everything from olive oil, pasta, cured meats and of course, glorious wine!  Hubby and I first did a cellar tour before we sat down to an amazing lunch.  The setting was really what Italian dreams are made of, with spectacular views over the Tuscan country side and the towers of San Gimignano looming on the horizon.

Beautiful Tuscan landscape
San Gimignano in the background

Lunch consisted of lovely fresh breads with some prosciutto, salami, olive oil and balsamic vinegar.  Main course was the kind of Italian pasta you hope to have on a visit to Tuscany, served with a rich, delicious meat ragu and a side salad.  And don’t forget the wines!  We ended off with a sweet dessert wine.  Simply put – it was a foodie’s heaven.

So tonight, while weather is cooling down here in Cape Town and light rain falls outside, hubby and I thought we would pay homage to this wonderful meal we had.  Definitely a good way to start the weekend.

Lamb shank ragu with homemade cavatelli pasta

(serves 4)

IMG_3314

First get started on your lamb ragu.  While that cooks away, you can start on your homemade pasta.

We use a pressure cooker to cook the lamb shank quickly.  If you don’t have a pressure cooker you should aim to cook your meat for about 2 hours to ensure it is nice and soft.

Lamb shank ragu

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons of olive oil

500g lamb shank

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

4 medium carrots, peeled, and sliced diagonally

2 celery stalks, chopped

½ cup of frozen peas

Bunch of rosemary and thyme (tie it up, so you can take it out easier at the end)

1 cup of good red wine

1 tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce

1 cup of water

1 teaspoon of sugar

2 tablespoons tomato puree

400g tin of diced tomatoes

1 chicken stock cube

Salt and Pepper to taste

Method:

  1. Heat the olive oil in a pressure cooker over medium heat. Add the lamb shank and fry until brown on all sides.
  2. Add the onions and fry until golden brown. Add the garlic and stir for a minute longer.
  3. Add the carrots and celery and fry for another 2 minutes until the vegetables start to soften.
  4. Add the cup of red wine and let the alcohol cook down.
  5. Add the tin of chopped tomatoes, tomato puree, Worcestershire sauce, and the cup of water.
  6. Next, add the sugar, stock cube and season with salt and pepper.
  7. Now add your bunch of herbs and close the pressure cooker.
  8. Cook on medium heat for an hour. Now get on with your homemade pasta – see the recipe and method further down…
  1. After an hour, remove the lamb shank from the pressure cooker. Discard the bunch of herbs.
  2. Shred the meat off the bone – it should be soft and very tender. Discard the bone and any fatty pieces.
  3. Reduce the sauce in the pressure cooker pot (lid off) until it has thickened.
  4. Add the peas to the sauce and return the meat to the pot.
  5. Simmer at low heat, while you boil your pasta
Fry lamb shank until brown and veggies until soft
Add wine and cook down
Add rest of liquids and add herbs. Cook for an hour.
Remove from pressure cooker.
Shred the meet fine.
Reduce the sauce in the pot.

Homemade cavatelli pasta

Ingredients:

500g of “00” flour

Pinch of salt

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 ¼ cups of cold water

Method:

  1. Place the flour in a large bowl. Make a little well in the center.  Add the salt, oil and water and mix with a fork until a dough is formed.  (It works best to get it together in a bowl and then turn it out on your counter and work into a firm ball.)
  2. Divide the dough into small pieces and roll it on your countertop to form a “sausage”/rope that is about 1cm thick. Start by working your hands from the inside to the outside to try and keep the shape as even as possible.
  3. Using a knife, slice the dough into about 2 to 3 cm pieces.
  4. Next, shape the cavatelli with your thumb. Put the piece of dough on the counter and push the dough against the countertop away from you so that the dough stretches slightly and folds around itself, creating a little pocket in the middle.
  5. Place the cavatelli on a lightly floured baking tray (do not let them touch) and let it rest for 40 minutes.
  6. Bring a pot of salted water to the boil. Toss the cavatelli in and cook until it floats to the top and stays there.  It takes approximately 3 – 8 minutes, depending on the size of your pasta.
  7. Transfer the pasta to a strainer and drain.
Make your cavatelli by pressing it down with your thumb on to the countertop, pushing away from you
Roll the pasta in thin “sausages”/ropes
It should be no more than 1cm thick

Lastly, add your drained pasta to the ragu and let it simmer for 10 minutes to absorb all the lovely flavours of your ragu.

IMG_3313
Add your pasta to your ragu

Serve with some grated parmesan.

Fantastico!

IMG_3316

About beer and truffles

~ WorkFoodHome ~ 1 Comment
IMG_8602
How many bottles of beer on the wall?

With Valentines Day approaching I can’t help but think that if men are from Mars and women from Venus, the perfect place to reunite them would be beautiful Bruges in Belgium.

Bruges is often referred to as the “Venice of the North” and with its historic city centre, its jaw-dropping architecture and the canals curling around its beautiful old buildings and narrow streets it is not hard to imagine that you could fall in love here.  It really is an amazing city that had me under its spell from the moment we arrived.

IMG_8198

However, it is actually not its perfect postcard prettiness that leads me to believe that this is the perfect place to reunite the sexes.

No, what makes this the perfect common ground is the two things Bruges have aplenty… beer and chocolate!

Belgium is renowned for its beer so it is no wonder that the average beer drinker downs about 81 litres of beer a year.  And when upon arrival at our lovely guesthouse in Bruges at 11:00 in the morning our lovely hostess immediately brought out some complementary beers, it became clear just how easily a person could reach that level of consumption!

I won’t pretend to be a beer connoisseur.  (I have to admit, to me it tastes like sucking on some hay bales, but to each his own!)  Having said that, it was fascinating to see just how many different types of beers you get and now and then I could even taste the odd one that I could swallow without pulling a face!  Typically the Belgian beers are served in bottles and not cans, but what makes it even more special is that each type of beer has its own distinct glass in which it has to be served! According to those in the know, using the right glass for the beer actually improves its flavour.  (Maybe that’s what’s wrong –  I’ve been using the wrong glass all along!)

We were lucky enough to discover the famous ‘t Brugs Beertje beerhouse.  It is located between the Markt and the Zand in 5 Kemelstraat.  It is off a small side street of Steenstraat – look carefully, or you might miss it. Here you can find over 300 different Belgian beers!  It is a unique little pub, with all kinds of beer paraphernalia on the wall.  Tables are close together and quickly someone that you don’t know can become an acquaintance in the search for the best beer on offer!

Hubby’s favourite was the Brugse Zot, which is actually a beer produced by De Halve Maan brewery right there in the historical town centre of Bruges.  It is a blond beer and hubby tells me it really tasted great; apparently fruity and not too bitter.  He also tried the Straffe Hendrik Quadruple (you can translate that to “Strong” Hendrik).  And boy, it is strong!  It has an 11% alcohol content!  (And tastes like many, many bitter hay bales!)

However, hubby’s ultimate favourite beer we found in a small pub in Damme.  Damme is only about 10 kilometres from Bruges and we cycled there one afternoon along the canals.  It was a superb experience; a bit misty but so beautiful cycling in such beautiful country side!   We found the pub on a corner on the main road.  He tried a few beers there as well, but when he put his lips to his first Leffe Blond, I had to accept that it would seem that in the world of beer, he thought blonds was more fun!

But don’t feel sorry for me and all the times I had to endure the bitter taste of the best Belgium had to offer.  Oh no… because with bitter there is always sweet.  You see, while our wonderful hostess brought out the beers early, she also brought out the chocolates for later!

As much beer as you can find in Bruges, that’s how much chocolate you can find.  There are beautiful little chocolate shops all over town; some just selling their chocolates in the front of the shop in a display that dazzles and others where the master chocolatiers display their skill right in the middle of the store for all to see.

I was amazed by the little figurines – sheep, bees, soccer balls, ducks, angry birds (!) and yip, even little chocolate beer bottles!  These were way too pretty to eat and I could only bring myself to take pictures of them!

IMG_8215

 

But oh, the pralines!  Little chocolate shells with soft-centred fillings of heavenly delight!  I love any type of strawberry fillings.  Orange fillings.  And salted caramel.  And coffee.  Oh, and cherry!  I love them all!  And mint!

But don’t forget the truffles!  A little bit of bitter cocoa powder around a soft ganache.  So soft that you just have to eat them quickly otherwise they will melt!  My favourites have a bit of nut mixed in the ganache.  And the best time to have them is after dinner… and before dinner… really any time the craving strikes!

There was this little shop we passed by each day we we walked back to our guesthouse.  We would walk in and just order a random selection of truffles and pralines and it was such a treat to pick through the box not knowing what you were going to get next!  Our guesthouse had this lovely gazebo and we spent all our evenings sitting out there with some wine (for me), some beer for hubby and some chocolate!

So you see, Bruges provides the perfect setting to bridge the gender gap!  It’s a beautiful and romantic setting that brings together bitter sweet in perfect harmony!  Let there be love!

IMG_8164

Aubergine á la Avignon

~ WorkFoodHome ~ 1 Comment

IMG_2154

Food is such a big part of our lives.  Just about everything has a food angle to it!

“It’s our anniversary, where are we going to go for supper?”  “Saturday looks like it is going to be a great day for the beach – shall we pack a nice picnic basket?”  “The in-laws are coming over for Sunday lunch – what new dessert recipe can we try?”  “Let’s watch some videos of our trip to France; then we make some Frenchy foods.”

Benjamin Franklin said “Eat to live, don’t live to eat.”  Well, thank goodness then that I need to eat to live, because I really like living, which means I can really like eating!

We have never returned from our travels with bad food memories (apart from one really bad pizza we had in Rome; think the restaurant was too close to a drain because the smells were awful!).  There are always things that we’ve tasted on our journeys that we try and replicate at home.  A recent favourite is from our trip to Provence a few months ago.

Avignon was our base.  On the must-do list was a picnic on the Ile de Barthalese with its iconic view over Pont Saint-Bénézet and the Palais des Papes.  We decided to stop over at Les Halles to pick up some substance for our al fresco lunch.  Walking around, the “Aubergines á l’ Italionne” caught my eye.  (I love aubergine – a love that only developed a few years ago.  I blame it on all the badly cooked aubergines I’ve had in my life up until that point!)  It looked so good and smelt divine and when one of the local residents standing in line in front of us chose this for her lunch, the deal was done.  What more do you need than the local stamp of approval?!

IMG_2225
Who would not want to have a picnic if you can have such a view?!

Back at home, in the absence of a recipe, hubby and I only had our taste buds and memory to go on when we tried to recreate the dish.  Here is to encouraging a few more aubergine converts with our version.

Aubergine á la Avignon

(serves 4)

Ingredients:

1 large aubergine

4 tablespoons butter

4 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, chopped finely

1 teaspoon garlic, chopped finely

400g beef mince

1 tin chopped tomatoes

1 ½ teaspoons tomato puree

2 cups water

1 ½  teaspoons of sugar

1 teaspoon of dried Provençal herbs (oregano, thyme, rosemary and basil)

Salt & Pepper to taste

125g mozzarella cheese, grated

Method:

  1. Cut the aubergine lengthways in 1cm thick slices. Keep the skin on.  You need four slices.
  2. Remove the skin of the remainder of the aubergine. Chop into small cubes.
  3. Heat two tablespoons of butter and a tablespoon of olive oil in a pan. Fry two slices of aubergine until soft, turning regularly to ensure a nice brown colour on both sides.
  4. Transfer the aubergines to a baking tray.
  5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 with the remaining two slices of aubergine. (Aubergines love butter so it is better to do them two at a time to ensure each gets enough to keep them soft and get that nice and golden colour.)
  6. Heat a table spoon of olive oil in a pan. Add the chopped aubergine, onions and garlic.
  7. Fry until golden brown and soft.
  8. Remove the aubergine, onion and garlic from the pan and set aside.
  9. Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in the pan and add the mince. Fry until brown.  This really adds to the flavour.
  10. Once the mince is brown, add the chopped aubergine, onions and garlic back in.
  11. Add the chopped tomatoes, tomato puree, two cups of water, sugar, herbs and salt and pepper.
  12. At this stage, pre-heat the oven (on the grill setting) to 180°C
  13. Let the mince mixture boil until the sauce is reduced completely.
  14. Once done, place some mince on top of each aubergine.
  15. Top it off with grated mozzarella.
  16. Bake in the oven for 10 minutes, until the cheese has melted.
  17. Serve with a salad.
Slice aubergines 1cm thick
Fry until golden brown and transfer to a baking try
Fry chopped aubergines, onions and garlic
Add some herbs for great flavour
Place your mince on top of the aubergine
Sprinkle with cheese and place in the oven

IMG_3274

Voilà! Aubergine á la Avignon

 

Market meandering

~ WorkFoodHome ~ 1 Comment
Colonne de Juillet
Looking towards the Place de la Bastille

I love the fresh produce markets we’ve encountered on our travels to Europe.

One of my favourites is the Marché Bastille in Paris.  From the Place de la Bastille (where the Colonne de Juillet stands in the center) long lines of stalls with colourful canopies stretch out on to the Boulevard Richard Lenoir.  (Caution – crossing the road at the traffic circle can be quite the adrenalin rush!)

Charcuterie
Olives, glorious olives

Hubby and I went fairly early on a Tuesday morning and not knowing exactly where it was, we spotted two elderly ladies with their shopping trolleys heading down the road, looking as if they had things to do and places to get to.  We had hunch that they had to be heading where we wanted to go so we followed them – and we were not wrong!  We were greeted by a food lover’s paradise.

IMG_9031
As much cheese as your heart desires

Walking along the merchants stalls you are tempted with all kinds of delights. There are delectable cheeses (some of the really mature ones not looking safe for human consumption!), a wide selection of fresh meat, from chicken and rabbit to beef and sausages.  And the seafood!  There is such a vast variety.  And it is impossible to ignore the gorgeous piles of fruit and veg (and not looking as if it was just dumped there, but like it was polished and arranged carefully to create beautiful works of art.)  And breads.  Charcuterie.  Olives.  Magnifique!

IMG_8997
The variety of seafood is amazing

IMG_8986

What really enthrals me are the stall holders, and the pride they have in their goods.  You can see it in the way they put it out on display, the way they call you over and confidently offer you a wedge of cheese or a sliver of ham.  On the day we were there, the vendor at one particular fruit stall did not want me to pass by before I did not taste the delicious mangos on offer.  I’m not sure if the mango was really that sweet or if it was his French accent! Either way, I still remember it – just over a year on!

IMG_8990
Foodie inspiration

To top it off, alongside the amazing produce, you will find stands selling all kinds of knickknacks, secondhand clothes, leather bags, shoes and even jewelry.  It’s the mixture of all these things that come together to create the magic of this market.  There is truly something for everyone’s taste (and wallet)!

But it is not only what I see and taste when I visit these places, it is the emotion it evokes.   While browsing the stalls I change from a faltering novice in the kitchen to believing I could be some sassy cook that would even put a Michelin starred chef to shame with what can be produced with the abundance at hand.  Inspired by the fresh produce and the beauty, passion and flair with which it is exhibited makes me believe that cooking should not be difficult – and how could it be with all this inspiration.

IMG_8963
Hubby looking at some caps

The Marché Bastille operates on Thursday, 7am-2.30pm and Sunday, 7am-3pm.

Memento

~ WorkFoodHome ~ 3 Comments
VIAJE EUROPA 2 281
The small town of Praiano on the Amalfi Coast of Italy

Being from the southern tip of Africa meant that it was about a 24 hour journey before we finally arrived in the beautiful little town of Praiano, on the Amalfi Coast of Italy.  The last stretch of the trip was done by bus from Sorrento, along the treacherous Amalfi Coast drive, and as the bus made its way around the corners it offered us little glimpses of its splendour.

I am not sure if it is the way that the houses seem to cling to the impossibly steep slopes rising out from the sea, the way lemon trees are planted at stupendous angles or the hypnotic beauty of the sea, speckled with white foam lines as speed boats and yachts make their way across the glistening blue ocean, but I fell completely and utterly in love with this place.

VIAJE EUROPA 2 020
One of the views from our hotel room balcony

Just down the road from our hotel was a wonderful little restaurant called M’ama! (Via Umberto I, 72, Praiano).  Located on top of another hotel it offered uninterrupted, panoramic views; in front of you, as far as the eyes could see, was just this mesmerising ocean and at the back was the beautiful mountains with houses dotted in between the green.

VIAJE EUROPA 2 033
M’ama! The view towards the mountains.

Their food was amazing.  Especially the seafood.  Fresh, simple and delicious.  Not trying to be too complicated and just letting the beautiful local produce do its thing.  Think freshly made pasta, cooked to perfection, with clams and mussels, just dressed with some tomatoes, basil and some olive oil.  Lemon sorbet.  Wonderful wine.  To top it all off, after the meal, we were presented with small, icy cold glasses with the local lemon liqueur called Limoncello. It was so cold that you could only take the smallest of sips at a time, but it was delicious and a perfect way to end off the night.

VIAJE EUROPA 2 043
Perfection – looking out over the ocean.

On our last night in Praiano, we just had to go back to M’ama.  After a wonderful meal, the little glasses made their appearance again.  So I looked at hubby and asked whether he thought they would sell it to us.  I really wanted to take a little piece of this paradise with me.  When it was time to pay the bill we asked the waiter if this was possible but unfortunately it was not to be.

However, as we were making our way out the door, the waiter came rushing down the stairs.  He spoke to the manager and explained that we were regular customers that week.  And the manager gave permission to give the glasses to us for free.  No sour endings here!

IMG_3214
Salute!

Today this is one of my most treasured ornaments that we’ve brought back from any holiday.  I can’t wait to return one day but until then, we will sip Limoncello at home and talk about when we are going to retire there.  Dream big, I say!

Memory lane

~ WorkFoodHome ~ 16 Comments
030_1
The old station building.  It closed many years ago.

Yesterday I read a really touching post called “Nostalgia” by Freespirit.  I was drawn to it because of the title.  I am quite sentimental (two huge containers in the garage filled with stuff I WILL still scrapbook is testimony to that!) so I thought it would be something along those lines.  It was more than that, though.  It was a reminder of how quickly time goes by and that often “we do not value those simple things in life that are more precious than gold“. It’s so true.

So inevitably it sent me down my own nostalgic road.  And the first thing I thought of was my parents and home – where I grew up.

HPIM0541
The entire town of Calvinia in one frame.

I was raised in a very small little town in South Africa, called Calvinia.  The town itself is part of the great Karoo, and if you were to ‘google’ the word Karoo it would tell you that it is a semi-desert area.  Strange, I never perceived it to be ‘desert’.  To me desert means sand, and although it is very dry and hot in summer, there is still shrubbery.  We call it “karoo-bossies” (‘bossies’ means bushes).  To the naked eye it would probably look dead, but their unmistakable smell (fragrant, almost herby) will let you know that they are very much alive and that its hard outer shell is just protection against the harsh sun.

DSC01154
The quiet streets where I grew up.

The little town is surrounded by two mountain ranges.  I remember walking home from school and some days the hot “bergwinds” (mountain winds) would come rushing down the mountain, through my hair.  At times it almost took my breath away.  I would walk with my arms outstretched, trying to catch the wind, untying my hair so that the wind would send flying it in all directions.  I loved the feeling – carefee, invincible, alive.  In those moments I always thought that I could be anything, achieve anything.

DSC01150
The view from my bedroom window.

And I loved the mountains.  My bedroom window had the most amazing view of the striking blue mountains that surrounds the town.  When sun went down the mountains would bask in an orange glow.  I never grew tired of it.  I spent many evenings sitting on my windowsill looking at it and drinking it all in.  Maybe this is where I get my peaceful nature from!

The town is really small, no more than a couple of thousand people living there.  This means hardly any light pollution and the result of that is an amazing night sky.  Words can’t do it justice, but the best way to describe it would be to image a black tablecloth scattered with diamonds, and packed as tightly against each other as if you poured salt between them. At night, as kids, we would lie on the grass for ages just staring up at the sky, looking at each twinkling little light.  Trying to see shooting stars or see who could first spot a satellite!  When my cousins from the city came to visit they were always in awe and could not believe that we were looking up at the same sky as what they did back home.

DSC01221
Post Office and the church.

For all the hot and dry the summers, the winters were freezing cold.  Sometimes we would even have some snow (called “kapok”) on the higher mountains, but never in town.  And if it was a proper rainy winter we were rewarded in spring with the most beautiful phenomenon…

011
Unused railroad tracks makes for a beautiful picture.

Come early August, the fields around the town turned green.  And it was not just the karoo-bossies.  It is almost something that cannot be described; just witnessed.  The wildflowers of spring.  How this dry and arid land could turn into a kaleidoscope of colours and smells…  As far as the eyes can see; orange and white daisies, purple “vygies” (a type of succulent), gazanias, little white flowers looking like a carpet of snowflakes… For a few weeks during August and September the town became a hive of activity as people from far and wide would come to see the spectacle.  It is really a magnificent performance by Mother Nature.

DSC_0888

 

DSC_0900

I loved growing up there.  I would not trade it for anything.  I even met hubby there.  He is not from there, but he came through town for his work back then and we were both in the right place at the right time.  The rest is history!

024

I left Calvinia the year after I finished school.  I’ve been back many times.  My parents still live there, but they prefer to come visit us in the city now.  Thanks, Freespirit, for transporting me back to those joyful moments.  And for reminding me to go back more often, while I still can.

 

 

Why the travel bug bites

~ WorkFoodHome ~ 17 Comments

My dream job would probably be touring the world (seeing it, experiencing it, cooking, eating and drinking it!) with hubby.  Yes, I definitely think so.  The travel bug has bitten and I will never recover from its fever!

But what is it about travelling; why do I love it so much?  Let me count the ways…

The feeling I get when hubby and I sit in the plane, ready to take off; arms locked, holding hands

IMG_2260
Aeroplane selfie

It’s hard to describe the feeling.  Anticipation.  Excitement.  A bit of nerves.  Like it is just me and him against the world (in a good way; not as in some sci-fi movie where we are the only people left to save the world from an alien invasion).  Together we are standing on the edge of the unknown, of an adventure, not knowing what awaits us, but knowing that together will make it through and that we will be forever changed by the experience.  Goosebump stuff!

 

 

The thrill of visiting a country where English is not the first language

The first country we visited where English was not spoken as a first language was France.  We arrived by train at Gare du Nord station and upon getting out on to the platform we were bombarded with everything in French; announcements, signage, people, the whole lot!  I could not see one bit of English anywhere!

IMG_2328
When we exited the metro station we just had to take this picture right on the Champs Elysees.

We honestly spent at least an hour inside that station trying to buy metro tickets and trying to find our way to the subway section.

(The reward was worth it though; we exited the metro at the Charles de Gaulle Etoile stop and as you come up from the stairs the magnificent Arc de Triomphe is right in front of you!)

A couple of years later we arrived back at Gare du Nord.  French/English signs everywhere.  Like they’ve always been. Clearly we were so in awe back then that we never noticed there was English aplenty!

Experiencing different cultures

There is something special about watching other people going about their normal daily routine and seeing how they just do things completely differently. From what they do, to how they do it.  It has definitely inspired some different behaviors from hubby and I; there is always something that you bring back with you and that will forever remain a part of you.

We were staying in a small town on the Amalfi Coast of Italy.  Hubby and I went for an early morning stroll by the little beach, following paths carved in to the rocks right next to the ocean.  On our way back we were met with the sight of people arguing.  It was three elderly ladies and two gentlemen in the water.  Hands waving in the air, gesturing, talking wildly.  I actually felt a bit afraid.  It seemed that someone could be drowned soon.  This was serious.  That’s until we got to the beach and saw them up close.  They were talking and laughing loudly, hands flying through the air as they told their stories.  No arguing there, they were just Italian!

VIAJE EUROPA 2 081
La Praia beach, Amalfi Coast, Italy

History (and landmarks)

I love history.  Ever since school.  (I don’t think the fact that my history teacher was kind of handsome had anything to do with it; I’ve managed to maintained my love for historic things years after his looks faded!)

Going to cathedrals, museums, visiting old squares and castles, monasteries – I love it, love it, love it!  It is just such an amazing privilege to see something from hundreds of years ago, that has survived all this time.  And not to see in on tv or in a magazine, but in ‘real life’.  I am forever changed by it.  Afterwards, if I see a place I’ve been to on television, I can’t help but see it in a different light, knowing that my footsteps were also once there.

It’s impossible to pick a highlight.  Each place is absolutely special in its own right.  However, the first cathedral we ever saw was the Notre-Dame de Reims in Reims, France.  Because it was the first, it will always have a special place in my heart.

Notre-Dame Des Reims facade
The back is just as beautiful

(Although, I must admit, the Eiffel Tower has some hypnotic power over me.  On each visit to Paris, whenever we pass it on foot, in a bus, on a boat, doesn’t matter how many pictures I have taken, I always have to take just one (or ten) more!)

Fresh produce markets, i.e. food and wine

We really love good food and wine, so it is such a thrill to try new things.  Each time we leave on holiday we go with a list of ‘must-try’ foods and we always come back with newfound  favourite recipes that we will continue to make for the rest of our lives.

 

Les Halles, Avignon, from the outside
Inside, anything your heart desires

The fresh produce markets are incredible.  In South Africa we don’t really have something similar and on the scale as we’ve encountered in Europe.  Because we really enjoy cooking we prefer staying in small apartments so that we can have cooking facilities.  This means we get to shop at the fresh produce markets to our hearts content and then bring it back to our little place to cook.

IMG_3521
Our own old blue door with our apartment just above the little pizzeria

 

Last year we visited Avignon.  We stayed in a wonderful little apartment in the center of the old city.  Just down the road (at 18 Place Pie) was Les Halles (the market).  It was the best experience going there, picking up some ingredients and then heading back to our little home away from home.  Normally when I walk in the streets I always wonder what is behind the old doors and this time we could open up our very own old door!

We spent many evenings cooking our hand-picked local produce, enjoying great local wine and looking out from our balcony at life going by in Avignon below. We really felt local and not like tourists at all.

Then… I also love the planning before the time – that is almost a holiday in itself.  And photography.  Hubby and I are keen photographers, so capturing these amazing places on camera is such a joy.  And fridge magnets.  We bring back a fridge magnet from every town we visit.  We ‘reveal’ them back home over some wine, reminiscing about each place as each little magnet gets its place of honour of the fridge.  And then there is…

Let me (further) count the ways another time!

Travel, laugh, encourage, eat

~ WorkFoodHome ~ 8 Comments
IMG_9173
The iconic Eiffel Tower in Paris

I hope you like travelling, because then you will know why I have fallen in love with it.  And I could tell you about all our favourite places Hubby and I have discovered. 

We haven’t travelled much internationally.  Wait, that’s not true. We have just not travelled as much as I would like to (i.e. permanently!)  That being said, we’ve seen quite a few places that we’ve always dreamt about, like Paris.

If you like a little bit of humour, you will enjoy this little story about our first time there.

Hubby and I eventually got tired of the hotel’s continental breakfast (only so many chocolate croissants one can have) that we really needed something familiar for breakfast.  This specific day we were on our way to Les Invalides  and we decided to look for something in the vicinity.  We settled on a small coffee bar.  It was run by an elderly gentleman.  His English wasn’t great but we managed to agree on an order of scrambled eggs on a slice of toast (not on the menu, I have to admit, but he was very willing to make it especially for us).  We were excited!  Soon enough he was back.  “Voilà!” Hubby and I were presented with a gigantic sized omelette, filled with what seemed to be a solid block of cheddar cheese… each!  What could we do?  “Merci-beaucoup!”

IMG_3538
Les Invalides, Paris, where Napoleon’s tomb lies under the golden dome

If you appreciate a little encouragement every now and then, I can tell you that anything is possible if you put your mind to it.  I’m a bit of a quote person and a favourite is one from Walt Disney.  He said “All our dreams can come true, if we have the courage to pursue them.”  I certainly don’t have the answers but I will gladly share whatever it is that I have figured out for myself along the way.

IMG_3199
Made it all the way to the Arc de Triomphe

And if you enjoy food, I could tell you about wonderful places we’ve discovered, or I could offer you a recipe now and then.  (I’m by no means an accomplished cook, but I enjoy it enough to try it often!  Or is it that I enjoy eating so much…?!)

One of my favourite chef’s is Rick Stein and in his book “Rick Stein’s French Odyssey” he has this recipe for small, shell-shaped French sponge cakes, called madeleines.  I’ve served as a light dessert many times.  It even has mother-in-law’s stamp of approval and that says a lot, because she really is a great cook.  It is very easy and quick to make.

Madeleines

(makes 24)

Ingredients:

  • 3 medium eggs
  • 100g caster sugar
  • Zest of one lemon
  • 100g plain flour, sifted (and a little bit extra for dusting)
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • 100g butter, melted (and some more for greasing the moulds)
  • 1 tbsp clear honey

NB:  You do need a madeleine baking tray to give them their unique shell shape.  I actually found a silicone version and it works perfectly.

Method:

  1. Brush your madeleine moulds with the melted butter and leave for a few minutes until the butter has slightly set. Dust with flour, and tap out any excess flour. This will ensure that only a small amount of flour sticks to the butter, which helps the madeleines turn out the mould easier and it also gives them a nice golden finish.  (I do this even though I use a silicone mould.)
  2. Preheat your oven to 190°C
  3. Put the eggs and sugar into a bowl and whisk until the batter becomes thick and mousse-like (about 3 minutes with an electric whisk). Whisk in the lemon zest.
  4. Sift the plain flour and baking powder together and gently fold in, followed by the melted butter and honey. Place the batter in the fridge and leave for 15 minutes to thicken slightly.
  5. Fill each of the madeleine moulds three-quarters full with the mixture and bake for 10 minutes until puffed up and golden. Leave to cool and then remove gently from the moulds.

In this recipe, Rick Stein serves it with vanilla ice cream and vanilla poached apricots.  However, in all the time I’ve been making this I have never been able to find fresh apricots, so I always opt for tinned apricots.  Works just as well in my opinion.

When plating, put two madeleines to one side of each of a shallow dessert bowl. Spoon some of the apricots and a little syrup alongside and add a scoop or two of ice cream.

IMG_1363
My madeleines, with Rick Stein’s French Odyssey in the background

Lastly, I hope that you will find enjoyment in travelling, laughing, finding a bit of encouragement and eating with me!

PS:  And I hope you like photography!